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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Topic Date User
TR 26th -27th NOV 28-Nov-2005 At 3:04:54 PM DaCrux
Message
Congrats Bob! Exodus is a great climb at that grade – I think I mainly used hexes and stoppers when I did it as it was also one of my first leads and I really wanted to learn to place them properly. I haven’t climbed much in the past 6 months as I’ve been busy with my thesis but I also spent the weekend at Araps.
Did Didgeridoo on Saturday (was going to do Hornpiece but got curious and wanted to see what was around the corner) – and then after a bush bash to get to Mari – my partner decided not to do it – he broke his ankle a few months ago and the beginning of Mari has the same kind of glassy rock as Blow by Blow which he broke his ankle on. So we went back to the Pines and then had dinner in Nati with my sis and her bf.
On Sunday we got up reasonably early and went to do Panzer. Phil led the slabby fist pitch as I really wanted to do the second pitch. As I was going up the corner I think I said that I was scared after placing a bomber cam, but I just said to my self – snap out of it it’s only a grade 12. Did a couple of hand jams in the crack, placed bit more gear, got to the roof, stepped out onto the aręte – and by that time I was really enjoying the climb. Found 3 old pitons but placed some more gear just in case (including a bomber RP which I was really proud of), and then ran it out after the last piton to the belay ledge. But the best bit of the climb was when my partner was coming up and said “I cannot believe I just gave that pitch away – it’s one of the best pitches I’ve done in a long time”. Then Phil led the last pitch which was jug city but a bit run out. We walked passed the hermit cave but he wasn’t there, got back to the Pines, had lunch and drove back to Adelaide. Hmm I really missed climbing.
I remember when I did Arachnus I had to remind myself to place gear because it was so easy and enjoyable – but a fall from something easy is still a fall – as exemplified by the massive blood stain at the bottom of Pedro.

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