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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

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Topic Date User
Mt Buller Ice 13-Aug-2005 At 10:29:03 PM uwhp510
Message
Bonjour tout le monde,

I just thought I would mention a route that I climbed last Sunday up at Buller which was seemingly absent from the guide written by Graeme and Geoffrey on this site. Whether this means it is new or not I'm not sure, but it was definately good. I've drawn the line on the relevant topo from the guide (in green obviously) and describe it hence.



Start left of the centre of the ampitheatre and head left and up icicles over first vertical section. Go straight up easy snow to next steep band and through this on ice/drytool moves. Go slightly right up ramp to belay under headwall. Head straight up the headwall on frozen turf and drytooling moves. While this is steep and might not have much gear (especially if its all rimed up) the moves aren't too hard. The route joins "Stonehinge" (I think) near the bolt just before the next belay on a nice ledge on the ridge line. Continue up the easy ridge as for Stonehinge.

This is as the route was last sunday, but I was up at Buller on Wednesday as well and needless to say it was in much better condition, especially on the two icicle sections on the first pitch which made it a fair bit easier. Also there was a 2 inch coating of rime on everything which made finding rock gear (which I predominately used the first time) quite hard.

PS My Name is Nick Herrald, and I was seconded by Rhiannon Palmer.

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