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Mt Pilot


Jackie

7-Dec-2004
3:47:01 PM

Hey just a quick review:

Yesterday we went along and sussed out Mt Pilot, near Beechworth in northern vic. Shaggy, Tanz, Luke, Keith, Steve-o and myself were in the area following some hippy fest thing and decided to top of an amazing weekend with a bit of a play.

Went via Beechworth to check out this famous bakery yum yum, and then onto "Bakery Wall" Mt Pilot. It was fairly warm as we headed out, arriving well after lunch. Parked about 1km from the crag and trooped across large granite flats. The bush terrain was gorgeous, with bright green vegetation contrasting against burnt remains of what looked like the work of a fairly recent fire.

According to the VCC north vic guide, Bakery Wall is the main attraction at Mt Pilot. Climbs range from around 15 trad thru to 25, with bolted local classic 'Doughboy' (25). Theres a small but decent range of trad and bolted stuff around 18-22.

With the late start and still very much in the festival mindset, we ended up only getting on three routes. The first was a sweet one star crack called 'Solo Man' (16). There was an approaching storm, and so we decided to shoot up 'Breakfast at the Pondersea' (15) while we watched to see what the weather was upto. The wind picked up and blew most of the storm over. The last climb was the 'The Beechworth Bakery' (21), a 20 metre trad adventure wondering up a thin crack and delicate face - by far the highlight of the day. Pro was excellent, a little too good actually - really had to fight to get a cam back.

Overall Mt Pilot was a treat. Nice single pitching, great atmosphere, a range of trad and bolted stuff at a range of grades, nice. Its a little far for a day trip and with araps and gramps a simular distance i personally wouldnt take a trip specially out there. If you're in the area, get a copy of the guide and check it out :)

[Mike's Edit] Above Right: Jackie Leading the classic 'The Beechworth Bakery' (21). More pics by Shaggy are at the bottom of the Mt Pilot gallery page.


neats

7-Dec-2004
6:13:35 PM

Nice one!


Rich

7-Dec-2004
6:36:29 PM

yeah good stuff jac :)


Jackie

7-Dec-2004
9:38:08 PM

Cheers kids!


shaggy

7-Dec-2004
10:28:35 PM

Yeah, was good fun, then there was that 6 meter slabby thing, was alright, (Maybe this should be in the shortest climb post), 2 bolts top out, no anchor, just removed the draws from an easy bolder next door. wierd stuff! Infact, that whole granite thing's a bit wierd? No holds, but amazing smearing friction.


shaggy

7-Dec-2004
10:48:29 PM

Oh yeah, and then there was the overnight detour to visit mumsy at the Domain Chandon vineyard on the way back, hmmm, good wine good champs, arghh so much wine, sorry Jac that you had to go back to Melbs for work.


Jackie

8-Dec-2004
12:28:14 AM

mmmm vino


Paulie

15-Dec-2004
4:50:28 AM

I'm really glad you liked my local...including that wee 6 mtr thing. That was put up as an introduction to slab climbing for local newbies and was soloed a long time before it was bolted. I placed the bolts so you could remove them from the boulder...belay is from the tree at the back.

How good is the route "Beechworth Bakery"! Awesome route in anyone's book.

If anyone is keen for a show around/climb out there I'm back in Wodonga on Saturday through until Jan 16th.

Cheers,

Paulie


Jackie

15-Dec-2004
11:05:33 AM

hey Paulie
cool man, looks like we might be up that way boxing day or so just for a day, ill PM u when its confirmed cheers Jackie


oweng

15-Dec-2004
11:35:56 AM

On my one day of climbing at My Pilot (prior to any of the route details being published), my mate tried to talk me into leading 'Beechworth Bakery', telling me it was one of the best 18's he had ever done.

Due to it being 40 degrees that day I passed it up.

Dunno if you read this forum Rol's, but that was some sweet sandbagging action! Almost got me....


IdratherbeclimbingM9

15-Dec-2004
5:45:55 PM

I heard a rumour that the Bakery Wall is now possibly the subject of access negotiations?
Its apparently a sensitive issue due to being of Aboriginal Cultural significance (Womens Initiation Area?) and I expect to hear more news in the near future.


Jackie

15-Dec-2004
7:41:38 PM

is that right? Keep us posted man, wouldnt want to offend anyone


Paulie

16-Dec-2004
12:30:53 AM

Hi mate,

Interesting. Mt Pilot in general is a significant area for the local Aboriginal people, however that's the 1st time I've ever heard of this turning into an access issue.

Do you know who the local liason officer is?

Paulie


climbau

16-Dec-2004
8:49:40 AM

On 15/12/2004 M8iswhereitsat wrote:
>I heard a rumour that the Bakery Wall is now possibly the subject of access
>negotiations?
>Its apparently a sensitive issue due to being of Aboriginal Cultural significance
>(Womens Initiation Area?) and I expect to hear more news in the near future.

To clarify, it is not a major issue yet. Some people have been asked to refrain from climbing there because they are involved in local cultural affairs. For the rest of the climbing community it may result in us all being asked not to climb at Bakery wall only. There are currently negotiations happening between climber reps and cultural reps, and it has been asked that this not be blown out of proportion, but for us all to just be respectful of the area. Basically, no new bolts, stay to tracks, don't trample vegetation, don't trundle rocks, basically if we stick to a "leave no trace" ethic, then it would make things easier for all concerned.
I can keep you posted on any developments.

Cheers
Andrew


paulie

19-Dec-2004
11:21:25 AM

Hey mate, back home in Wodonga now...bl**dy hot!!! keen to get out soon. Drop me aline to : paul_martin1974@yahoo.com.au or give me a ring on my home phone.

Paulie


elmo_lives

19-Dec-2004
12:45:54 PM

does anyone know the details on the caving/crawling problems that
exist at mt beechworth?


shaggy

19-Dec-2004
1:05:49 PM

Caving/crawling? Elmo, lets go!


elmo_lives

19-Dec-2004
5:35:35 PM

I’m not sure where it is but last time I climbed there someone told me about some caving squeeze mission you can do that involves knowing which way to go and not eating too many burritos beforehand. I’m sure it would be worthy of the next chockstone gathering.
Just wondering but, what’s the record amount of people that have been in the squeeze problem at Araps?


Jackie

19-Dec-2004
11:40:00 PM

I heard it was 8, last summer, but shaggy can confirm that for sure. Man there's no way i'd want to be the person in the bottom argh

Hey Paulie! Noice, its hot everywhere, we be up that way boxing day i'd say, if you keen we're also sussing out some sweet granite action from 27-29 at buffalo


shaggy

20-Dec-2004
10:43:22 AM

I believe it was 9, we had all been there for a while, was a little boared, broke out the vid camera and squeezed 9 of us into the boulder. we had 2 stacks of 3 people, 1 stack of 2 people in the main part, and then wendy squeezed in from the top hole. I welcome anyone to challange this record, but please provide evidence, I rekon we could possibly get 1 more person in. These were all full sized people, no midgets (size defficent people) allowed.

There are 22 messages in this topic.