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TR - Mt Buffalo Southside Gorge FA 27-Apr-2018 At 6:18:44 PM IdratherbeclimbingM9

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On 13-Apr-2018 bigchris wrote:
>On 13-Apr-2018 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>I can see the dis-join arising here in that the younger climber of today
>>hasn’t been born long enough ago to fulfill that statement due either
>>not being in existence or not learning climbing with that older yardstick.
>
>Yes and true. However I dont entirely think it's relevant? Maybe it is,
>maybe it's not. I raised a point the other day with another climber (who's
>got the second ascent), that if drills were around in the early days, there
>would be a heap more bolts about. The "old yardstick" isn't going to hang
>around forever because I can't do anything about when I was born. I've
>only been climbing for around 6 years or something.
>
The old yardstick which you are attributing to a convenience factor is actually more than that.
It is a state of mind accompanied by a skillset gained to match it.
Our Australian climbing history is present in multiple forms, probably the most enduring of which is the minimalist bolted routes that already exist.
Living memory will die off with original ascentionists departing this life, but original guidebooks will endure a little longer...
As you get older I suspect that you will consider it more relevant.

>I also think that this is one reason why people.dont climb at Buffalo - they think it's run out and dangerous.
>>
Some climbs located there are as you describe by today's lightweight yardstick, but this is a matter of perspectives.
Personally I agree with DD's post earlier, that they are something good left as is to aspire to.
If they are written up true to their character then people can choose to do them or not, as the case may be.
People choosing not climbing at Buffalo might well be considered a good thing by some devotees(!), and if they accidentally stray into this historically rich area then the best tip I can give them is to beware most climbs that have K. Lindorff recorded as a first ascentionist!!

>>The others can speak for themselves however the fact that you cited the
>Monarch example is proof positive of the existence of the earlier yardstick
>>and dare I say a level of achievement to aspire too.
>
>I don't agree with you on this one Rod. Running a whole pitch with no
>gear is not smart. There's a reason no one climbs Monarch - no gear. I'd
>love to give it a go, but I won't be if it's not protectable. On a side
>note, I dont even know how to get to the bottom of it :D
>
See my comment above.
I learnt thrutching in protectionless pitches long ago.
I also free solo from time to time, as well as rope-solo.
The common theme in both of those activities is the mental aspect required to be successful at it, and after you reach your physical limits in climbing, as I have at a relatively modest grade, I have found the mental aspects of climbing prove to be a far richer area to explore...
>>
(snip)
>>
>>Regardless, the positive aspect of this ascent is that Typhon in its
>current
>>state may well turn out to be a popular stepping stone to the older style
>>for generations that follow.
>
>I agree. And for people that don't have access to wide gear will still
>find it run out as f**k and pants-shittingly scary. It's bold as all hell.

... But probably not for someone who just finished climbing Monarch!

>**********************
(snip)
>
>I also pulled the lip of Country Road and then fell out of the headwall.
>Those bolts need to be replaced. Or even for historical value, it would
>be much easier if they stayed where they were and two bolts were put in
>the wall to the right. That's an accident/death waiting to happen (we actually
>had a couple of cams in the crack which made the belay freaking uncomfortable
>- but you get my point).
>
I disagree.
The bolts are located fine for the first ascentionists and many many repeat ascentionists, including me...

I suggest that you adapt your style to using them 'as is' for location, towards achieving a safer or more comfortable outcome.