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TR - Mt Buffalo Southside Gorge FA 16-Apr-2018 At 3:47:25 PM bigchris

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On 16-Apr-2018 gordoste wrote:
>On 16-Apr-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>>I'm not even specifically commenting on your new route, cause I haven't
>>seen it. Your general attitude in this thread (which I accept could be
>>a defensive reaction) sounds pretty fuching lame.
>
>Stop being a tool. The ethics are clearly that the FA decides on how to
>protect the route. He has followed those ethics scrupulously. Your attitude
>is the problem. If everybody was like you, the next generation would just
>reject the established ethics entirely - what's the point of following
>them if you're going to get criticized anyway?

Firstly ODH, i'm sorry if i've upset you with my attitude. I really have tried to be open and honest about what i'm doing.

I am scrupulous in the planning with stuff like this. I try to follow along what others have done before me, and I realise in the scheme of things i'm a 'junior' climber.

On 16-Apr-2018 mikllaw wrote:
>He's made a route that is doable with a 'standard offwidth rack' (which
>goes up to about 9" these days) plus bolts.

That was the idea. So as many people could climb it, how they want to.

>What would be unethical would
>be to make a set of custom tubes and 'seat' them with a large hammer, then
>remove them. Or do it on 12" cams that no-one else could access. Sounds
>like typical gravelly crack so tubes would be very marginal.

I did it on bolts, i've done it on huge cams, i've done it on TR. I'm not doing it on tubes. It is nice and clean so they might work now, but i'm not interested anyway. Like Mikl says, now anyone can do it in whatever style they like.

>
>And it's even had a second ascent! How many offwidths manage that at Buffalo?

Yahhhhh!!!