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Post renamed to TR: Landslide Chimney, Dog Face 3-Mar-2018 At 11:26:52 AM robbio
So I did Landslide Chimney a couple of weekends ago with my mate Paul Thompson in 4 pitches. It was great. Given the unique experience i thought i'd do little write up.

I cannot post it all in one go, perhaps it 's too long? Here it is in three parts.

PART 1/3

It had been on my to do list for years, ever since i read the guide description and walked out to the base to check it out. I just needed a partner who was suitably pysched to do it. Enter Paul Thompson.

Well no-one i know is more psyched for a "tradventure" than that of Paul. And despite him acknowledging that chossy chimneys are not his forte, i knew that he could not say no. The fact that he might not even enjoy the climb was irrelevant. Real climbers don't just climb their preferred style or just climb to their strengths. They should experience the good, the bad, and the ugly. And I was ready and willing to exploit this character trait of his for my personal gain.

Being the gentleman that Paul is, he did not shake his head when i insisted on bringing my big bros and hexes, nor did he roll his eyes when i asked if we could walk in via the scenic route rather than rap down Dogface itself. The walk-in felt like the right thing to do i thought. And so it was. I had him booked for yet another trad adventure.

Sunday morning, 7:30am. Bright and early I meet up with Paul at the Kiosk and proceed to sort out my climbing gear on a park table. A woman sitting across from us sees my climbing gear and asks me what we were up to for the day. "We're going to do a climb at Dogface. Landslide Chimney." I added. The woman laughed. "My husband has been trying to get me to follow him up that for years" but it's not really my idea of fun. Funny, here we are are about to head off and climb something that doesn't get many ascents, but it seems that every man and his dog has their own opinion on it.

After my usual phaffing about, we head down the Furber steps towards the climb, with my big bros swaying about and being a pain in the arse. The price you pay for slinging them with long cord i guess... After about 30minutes of walking, we could see our objective in the distance. My excitement builds. Much like a teenager who first lays eyes on a stick book. I find it hard to look away, and suddenly feel very small. Paul senses my excitement. "You should do the money pitch. You will love it whereas i will probably find it heinous". He is referring to the chimney pitch of course. My eyes light up. It is as though he has just offered me a two pack of cream caramels. "Thanks man, are you sure? We can always spud off as usual for the initial lead". But he doesn't seem too fussed. We soon reach the base of the climb. Paul racks up and is away, starting up the initial crack, the crux pitch. The old carrots are well camouflaged within the sandstone. So much so that he only spots the first one when it is already at his feet. He awkwardly manages to bend down and clip the old and rusty carrot. The climb is vegetated and run out, and Paul apologises for taking his time. If only he knew what was to come of my lead he need not have apologised. Higher up near the belay Paul looks at an ancient bolt and simply pulls off the bolt head with his thumb and forefinger and puts it in his chalk bag, much like some cool party trick. I knew he was getting strong but this was getting ridiculous. After setting up belay on a couple of old "ok" carrots and backing it up with another piece, up i come on second. "This would have been exciting on lead" i call out to Paul as i fight my way through a thick bush within the crack.

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