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Gramps 1st March

5:50:20 PM
A team of four of us set out for the Victoria Range on Friday night. We had NSW climber Steve Hawkshaw with us as well as Joe Morgan and Kathy Dicker. Two drills and about 30kg of bolting gear was squeezed into the car for a new routing extravaganza. First stop was the very under-developed Scoop Rocks – and area tucked in behind Eagle Rock. Bush bashing in we stumbled upon some Aboriginal art in a little cave which was really nice. It is always awesome to find stuff like that with no big metal fences or tourists. We kept well clear and continued the walk in to the climbing area. With grey skies and high wind we took the tour of the numerous walls and gullies. Numerous obvious routes stood out waiting for some hard climbers (Nathan?). The first line we attacked was dubbed Angry Arborist after I took a whipper through a tree, spearing my arse on the top and cutting my pants open. Six ringbolts and a gob smacking long dyno off two tiny crimpers was the grade 23+ crux. I had no hope of doing the move – but long legged Steve showed his NSW style and dynoed up and out to the perfect heuco hold. With no feet you have to pop again to the bottom of a cave. The finish is really nice slightly overhung face climbing. We then tried some boulder problems and attempted to bolt another route – but the drill ran out of power. In a slight drizzle we stumbled back to the car. A quick drive north, with a detour via the ‘drill recharging station’ of Zumsteins, got us to Mt Stapylton campground.

Dawn and a keen bunch of eight climbers headed into Sentinel with the intention of ticking a few more projects. The main task was a clean ascent of Army of Ants. Rohan and myself had got all the moves but had not linked its dynamic cruxes together. Eventually the line fell to Rohans smooth style and the hardest route was ticked – we gave it grade 26. It would be very hard if you were short. Joe led the first ‘pitch’ of the Traverse of Doom and then gave the reigns over to me to try the finish roof. I wasn’t planning to try and free it ground up but by the time I got to the roof I decided to give it a go. I wiggled in a bad cam and swung out into the roof. I was pumped silly but lunged and heelhooked along to the lip – where I grabbed a big jug and laybacked up on it. It tore from the face sending me on an upside down fall onto the manky cam. I sheepishly pulled back up and decided to bolt the rest of it. I lowered down and rapped in from above and gave any suspicious holds a good going over with the hammer. Happier with the results I climbed the route cleanly with Jacqui seconding at grade 22. I called it the Roof of Doom. Joe and Steve bolted and led a great easy line on the far left of the crag – dubbed Half Shark Half Man (17). It was something about them dropping the rope into the creek that got the name. The route itself has a steep start and a juggy finish and is a great addition to the cliff as a warm-up. All the other climbs got heaps of repeats by the others and by the end of the day it was literally covered in quickdraws. We all left with sore hands and pumped forearms.

Photos are here
9:06:59 AM
the flick of neil on roof of doom is right where he plumeted off with a large chunk of the "pitch " following his upside down decent.

cheers again for another great weekend neil.


10:55:25 AM
pictures came out well neil.
thanks for the great trip Neil, joe and Kathy


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