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Camels Hump

shiltz

3-Mar-2003
3:49:26 PM

Spent a day at Camels Hump last week with Kuba, a postgrad looking for an excuse to procrastinate. After the slabs at Ben Cairn and Tenneriffe it was good to get onto something steep. I haven't been out there for a few years so I was keen to repeat a few routes and tick a few I'd missed on past trips.
We hit the crag around half ten and I kicked off proceedings with Split Images (18), just right of Poxbow. Good to see that the dodgy old home made hangers have been replaced with some shiny new ring bolts. We rapped off at the top of the first pitch and Kuba lead Poxbow (17). This is a great little climb that I'm always happy to jump on again.
Fully warmed up now I jumped on Powder Hound (21). I've never tried it before but if you're into traverses then you'll enjoy it. Don't assume that you'll be clipping bolts the whole way (like most routes on that side of the Omage block), you'll need plenty of wires. There are some good rests along the way but make sure you have a good idea where the climb goes before setting off.
After some lunch Kuba tackled Witch (17), which is a really classic climb. There is a block missing right at the bottom that I can remember from previous trips. It was about a foot across and used to move when you pulled around it. I was talking to another friend on Thursday and he told me it was knocked of by an ?ice climber? Evidently they were out there one day and there was a guy with crampons and ice axes, toproping Witch. He didn't have a very soft touch and ripped the block out quite early in the piece. It doesn't make the climb any harder though and we both enjoyed the climb even though I've done it many times before.
The next climb we tackled though was a different story. I've done Broomstick (23) before and thought I'd pay it a return visit. The start seems to be much harder than I remember. Another guy out there (attempting Satanic Verses) told me that one of the first holds has broken a bit. Could be that I'm not as strong as I was also, but I couldn't pull the first move. Rather than dog it on lead we set up a top rope and had another shot. I still couldn't get the first move so I eventually pulled on the bolt and did the rest of the climb which is great. I'd be interested to know if people still think it is grade 23.

Robin

3-Mar-2003
9:31:44 PM

I've seen literally dozens of climbers struggle on the start of Broomstick, many of them top class climbers. I've only ever seen two climbers walk up and climb it clean. Most climbers seem to think it's a 'bouldery start' with about grade 25 moves. I finally got all the moves on top rope after years' of not being able to do even the first half of a move. Two dead points then a rock over all on shit holds. Just got to be strong and quick.

It's a bit hard to grade a climb where the crux is the first few moves off the deck then the climb backs off dramatically. Personally I think Broomstick is as hard or harder than Manic Depressive (25), but then again I thought MD was a 23 with a bouldery start.

phil_nev

25-Mar-2003
6:12:13 PM

Did it today, start is Fcking DESPERATE....

After the inital part the rest of the route back of considerably, although the climbing is consistently great.

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