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Topic Date User
Ozymandias trip report (on Supertopo)... 4-Apr-2017 At 8:53:23 PM Miguel75
On 3/04/2017 jakob wrote:
>>>On 30/03/2017 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>~> Make of it what you will; but I am of the opinion that deuce4 has
>>it by calling it C3, as in my opinion 'C' grades are generally harder
>>the original USA 'A' grades and I was of the belief that Ozy/Direct generally
>>equated to A3 for grade (but am not sure at this present time where I
>>that opinion from!!, though an old article in Rock Magazine on Ozy rings
>>vague memory bells...).
>So in the US system, "C" grades represent clean ascents, i.e. no hammer.
>If you are using nuts, cams, cam hooks, other hooks this is a clean ascent.
>"A" represents aided ascents using a hammer and pitons, rurps, beaks,
>blades etc.
>The number represents consequence of fall, not difficulty. C1/A1 is all
>pieces are fall rated, C2/A2 is there are occasional body weight only pieces,
>C3/A3 is multiple body weight in a row, fall would result in ripping 6-8
>pieces and result in injury. C4/A4 is big falls and serious injury. C5/A5
>is the controversial rating that a fall should result in death because
>the entire climb is basically body weight only pieces, some argue this
>even has to include the belay such that a true A5 fall should result in
>both the climber and belayer dying, others say this is "A6".
>So, Duece4 by stating it was C3 was basically saying that he did it all
>clean without a hammer, and there were sections where there were sections
>of multiple body weight only placements (including camhooks cause you remove
>them), but where the falls would be safe.
>I think M5 roughly converts over to around C3 ish.

Jakob, I'm not sure if you're aware you're linking to Duece4's website...

Duece4 = John Middendorf = Finkle = Einhorn.....

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