Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author

TR: Echo Crack, Change Planets (Dogface) & MORE!

PThomson

30-Dec-2016
6:01:56 PM

G'day all,

The final update (for now) of the blog detailing my bumbly life as a full time climber is out, and in stark contrast to my last "headpointing"-orientated update, this one is all about the ground-up onsight.

This time I tackle:

*Blue Ruin (200m 6-pitch Sport 25) at Pierces Pass.
*Change Planets (40m Horrorshow 25) at Dogface.
*It Came from Outer Space (70m 3-pitch Mixed 25) at Corroboree Walls.
*Echo Crack (190m Trad 25) at Katoomba Cliffs.

And more

Check out the final chapter of my climbing sabbatical in Swansong Part 2: The Final Countdown.

Thanks for reading. I hope that my numpty antics have been an appropriate distraction from your daily desk-riding routine.

Regards,

-Paul T

mikllaw

30-Dec-2016
6:28:58 PM

Blue Ruin has those 2 fun pitches and not much else, I agree.

Change planets was scary with shiny new bolts, I can't imagine what it's like now. Maybe Macca will rebolt it with cigarette butts. I recall the holds were ok, brown things sticking out of the sand that looked like the soap and toilet roll holders made of tiles that you find in 50s bathrooms.

PThomson

30-Dec-2016
6:39:23 PM

I thought Blue Ruin had 4 thoroughly enjoyable pitches, Mikl!

mikllaw

30-Dec-2016
6:43:32 PM

The sandy bit on P1 of Blue Ruin has a can of clear spray lacquer on it to hold the sand together. Maybe I can get a barrel for Change Planets?

Macciza

30-Dec-2016
9:00:34 PM

Most of the bolts on Change Planets are still ok by DogFace standards ....
The holds are a different matter though, they're bomber in comparison to the rest ....
No action is needed for at least another 20 years I reckon ...

Lingy

31-Dec-2016
8:24:26 AM

Great TR Paul, though I reckon you should include a 'spoiler alert' at the top for anyone wanting to replicate the style - it'd be pretty hard to claim the onsight after reading one of your beta-max reports! (Not that I'm in any danger of doing that ;-)

Good luck readjusting to the working world!

PThomson

31-Dec-2016
9:49:21 AM

Lingy - Good idea on the SPOILER ALERT... I just added it now.

Glad you enjoyed the TR. =)

mikllaw

31-Dec-2016
12:23:01 PM

On 30/12/2016 Macciza wrote:

>The holds are a different matter though, they're bomber in comparison
>to the rest ....

The pitch follows a water streak and the rock appears much better than the rest of the wall

technogeekery

3-Jan-2017
11:13:33 AM

Great blog post as usual, thoroughly enjoyed it. Sad to see you locked up in cubicle-land :P but probably a great idea to let your bones and ligaments heal. If you can stay off the rock, that is! Thanks for all the entertaining writing and great pics (from you & your collaborators)

There are 9 messages in this topic.