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Topic Date User

OZYMINDIAS ORIGINAL - An intro to aid 25-Feb-2016 At 8:21:11 PM Jok

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Thank you all for the replies, I was worried I went a little overboard with the writing.

On 25/02/2016 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Care to elaborate?*

Things I would change:
-Practice hauling until it is nailed, even just slightly quicker hauling technique would have shaved a few hours off the total climb.

-Practice jumaring until I'm blue in the face and train weighted squats for endurance instead of strength as that will help with the lactic acid build up in the legs which slowed us down considerately on the long pitches.

-Obtain accurate weather reports and pack for worst case anyway.

-Triple check the serviceability and suitability of wet weather gear.

-Take a small poncho or thermal shirt a size larger and keep it in my pocket at all times, when that wind picks up it gets cold very quick. Some protection is better than none.

-Eat something every time your on belay and every time your waiting for the follower, the last day we worked for 19 hours straight with just a 95g tin of tuna and some glucose tabs each. I believe that was the main contributor to our exhaustion levels. On the other hand I dropped 4kgs of fat on that climb and I started very lean to begin with, so if your looking to shred...

-On the 8th pitch go under the trees not over them, this will mean you need a 15m lower out line but the haul will be much easier and faster.

-Take the extra night on the wall if you need it. Although climbing in the dark was new to me and exciting for a while it becomes a real drag after midnight when your body wants to sleep.

-If it raining wait for clearer sky's, although you can climb in the rain its no where near as fun.

On the topic of mallions:
You are all right and they probably are stronger than most my gear but I still don't trust them. I don't even trust bolts I'll take a nut over a bolt any day and definitely prefer trad anchors. So with that, any bit of steel that doesn't have a UIAA rating (or in this case any type of standards certification) isn't welcome on my rack.

The steel is 5.8mm diameter, the markings are:
MALLION RAPIDE
WLL 250 KGS D6
MADE IN FRANCE