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OZYMANDIAS ORIGINAL - An intro to aid 24-Feb-2016 At 11:09:57 PM Jok

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OZYMANDIAS ORIGINAL - An intro to aid

-Darwin, NT, early 2015-
When I decided I want to climb my first big wall I had just started teaching my friend to lead climb, he had climbed a few top rope routes in the past many years ago but other than that was completely new to the sport.

"Hey Georgie, wanna come climb a big wall" I asked, "how big?" he replied "about 300m, should take a few days" I answered, "bloody oath I do" came Georgie's enthusiastic reply.

After some planning we decided to climb Ozymandias Original at Christmas giving us seven months to prepare, seeing as though Georgie had only been lead climbing two days at this stage we had a lot of work ahead of us. The rest of the year was spent reading every bit of information we could find on the internet, trip reports, U-Tube videos, forums, instructionals, and a half dozen books. The two most useful were "How to Bigwall climb" by Chris McNamara and "Me, Myself and I - The dark art of bigwall soloing" by Andy Kirkpatrick. During this I also researched how to make a good movie, I had every scene thought out and written on a checklist. Some of the scenes would involve extra work, such as placing the camera facing down or off to the side, down climbing then re-leading that section on film.

As the nearest crag is a good two hours from home most of our training was at ground level or on 4m chossy quarry faces. We managed to practice hauling and anchor setup/sequence in case we couldn't communicate, this way we could still operate based on which ropes were having all the slack pulled through. When we could get out to the crag our intentions were to free climb for a bit then practice some aid, it never worked out that way. Every time Georgie and I would get carried away free climbing and decide we can train next time, "she'll be right, we'll just cuff it", we would always say.

(A surprisingly solid hook placement in rock barely harder than dirt)

The plan was to fly into Melbourne, drive straight to Mt Buffalo and walk down to the base of the North Wall to bivvy Sunday night. From there we will bivvy at Big Grassy Monday, the pitch 8 belay Tuesday, and then top out Wednesday evening. Thursday will be a rest day so we can climb Where Angels Fear to Tread on Friday, and then drive all night to get a plane out Saturday morning. Finally the time had come, our bags were packed, kit double checked and we were excited. One last check of the weather and it was looking perfect; slightly overcast with a min of 15 and a max of 28; we couldn't have been more wrong.

-Mt Buffalo, Vic, 03Jan16-
DAY 1 - SUNDAY:
I pulled the hire car over not too far into Mt Buffalo National Park; this was our first glimpse of The Gorge. As we looked up with awe, the ominous sound of thunder could be heard in the distance, 'damn you Murphy' I thought. Georgie and I look at each other "we got rain jackets" he said, "yeah, it probably won't hit us anyway" I replied while thinking 'even if it does we just come from the NT wet season, we can handle a bit of rain'.

(First view of The Gorge)

The sky was darkening as I locked the car and secured the pigs strap around my waist. With no guide book and no idea where the South Side Track is, luck was with us. We met a couple locals at the base of the car park who showed us the track's beginning and gave us good beta for Ozy Direct, 'why not? it's just aid climbing, how hard can it be?' I thought overconfidently. A quick chat with Georgie and our plan has changed slightly, instead of Original we will do direct and spend Tuesday night at Gled Hill Bivvy. The weather here on the mountain was much colder than we had anticipated, the weeks forecast was minimum of 3 to a maximum of 16, a fair way off the 15-28 we had planned for. 'Never mind we can handle the cold, it’s just a bit uncomfortable' I thought.

We started walking down the Gorge at 1400h, coincidentally so did the rain. Our packs weighed in at roughly 35Kgs each and the track was of such quality that even a goat would hesitate to call it a goat track. Never less spirits were high, the muddy ground and wet slippery rock couldn’t bother us, we made it to Ozy; we are about to climb our first wall. After an amazingly, scenic walk and some tricky roped descents we were almost at the bottom.

(Georgie with the pig and ledge)

(Georgie relaxing at Crystal brook)

I had just navigated down a roped section and turned to my left to descend the last rope which was very steep "ROPE CLEAR" I called to Georgie. I was slowly working through the steepest section of the last rope I hear the scream "ROCK!" a quick glance to my right and I snap my head rearward just a fist sized stone brushes past my head, with the sudden movement I slip, my right hand is through a loop of rope, it manages to stay clenched and catch the fall of myself and my 35Kg pack, with a scream of pain my shoulder takes most of the impact. I expect it to be dislocated but surprisingly its still working, although quite painful, I get my footing back, call out "I'M OK" and continue down the track.

A quick check of the time, 1730h and we are at the base of Ozy, its still raining in that annoying endless drizzle kind of way but morale is still high and the view is beautiful. Georgie and I gather all the empty coke bottles and take them down to Crystal Brook to fill, 28L in total, as we walk back to the base he finds a sandwich bag with four tins of Tuna "hey Jok, look at this" he exclaims "I found dinner".

(Filling our water from Crystal Brook)

We ate cold tin of stew each, as we stashed the Tuna in the haul bag for harder times when the tasty meal would be more appreciated. The conversation is excited and fast as we eat, tomorrow will be a day to remember. Georgie set his bed under a small tarp on a grassy ledge by the base; I hung my single man ledge off the first bolt of Ozy, put my sleeping bag inside a waterproof bivvy bag and hopped inside for an early nights sleep. The rain was holding steady

(Its still drizzling)

DAY 2 - MONDAY:
I woke lying on my side 'what time is it? why is my hip so cold?' I check my sleeping bag; 'it’s dry, I'm not sure why it is so cold'. The time is 0138h and I fall back asleep.

I wake again this time freezing cold, shivering, my shirt, pants, underwear are all wet. A quick smell of my hand 'well I didn't piss myself, that’s a good thing' I thought. I check the time, its 0150h, 'why am I wet?' I feel around my sleeping bag, its drenched where my hip is pressing into it, the water is wicking up from below. My bivvy bag is leaking, I peek outside and it is still raining steadily, 'its going to be a long night' I resigned as I curled into a ball for more warmth.

(No matter how bad things feel, it is still beautiful)

I woke Georgie at 0600h, I feel terrible, I had an hours fitful sleep since 0200h at best. Time for breakfast, Georgie and I sat in the drizzle on top a rock ledge, a quick sachet of cold muesli each. I am struggling to eat mine, every bite is nauseating, and I have no idea why. As we quietly prepare the racks I think to myself 'what’s wrong? why are you so exhausted?', 'It can’t be the walk, that wasn't even hard' I thought. Questions that I can't answer, I just assume it is lack of sleep and the constant rain getting to me, I will feel better when I'm on the wall. I pay off the first few scenes I planned to record for the movie.

Pitch 1:
I already had my first ladder clipped from last night, so at 0830h I started climbing; the wall is extremely wet and slimy. I try stand on the sloping ledge above the first bolt but my hiking boots can't make purchase on the wet rock, I find a tentative sky hook placement just strong enough to stop my foot sliding off the ledge. Taking my nut tool which is attached to the leaders chest harness by a retractable lanyard I start digging, but find no placements. "Georgie, pass me the stick" "here" he replied, passing it up. I promptly clipped the bolt and used the rope to pull myself through the bare section. Once into the corner there was no crack to be seen through the mud and moss, out comes the nut tool for some exploratory digging. A few more placements and the crack widens, I am feeling much better now, moving faster, my energy is now returning.

Before I know it I am at the belay, one rusty bolt head and two bolt plates with mallions. I pay no notice of the mallions and clip them anyway; putting a hero loop the bolt head I clip a photon locker to it too. Working quickly I build the twin power point anchor that Rod Harding-Robbins taught me. Using a double figure 8 to fix the lead line, I shout "LINE FIXED!" as I reach for the haul system attached to my rear harness loop, "THANK YOU" was the answer I received.

I started hauling using a 2:1 system and the squat haul method; my technique must have been out because it took a ridiculously long time to haul the pig 25m. Meanwhile Georgie was ascending the rope cleaning the gear. By 1030h the bag was docked, backed up and Georgie had joined me at the belay. "so Georgie, we're at pitch 1 of 10 and you're already higher than you've ever climbed, whatcha recon?" I asked "aw, interesting" he replied smiling.

Pitch 2:
Georgie set off on lead though the thin corner using homemade aiders. He was moving quite slowly which we attributed the aiders being half the size of my Metoulius 8 step ladders, he couldn't seem to step high enough in them and maintain balance either. This resulted in each piece being placed too close to the last. I told him next time he is on lead to take mine and see if that helps.

I was resting my head against the wall staring blankly at the belay, feeling miserable again now that I haven’t been moving for an hour. The rain was really getting to me, it has barely stopped in the last 24 hours when it dawned on me, 'mallions, why the hell did I clip to mallions?' A quick inspection and I see that they only have a 250kg SWL. 'Not good' I thought, 'I never make stupid mistakes like this, I must be worse off than I thought'. I clip a draw into each bolt plate above the mallion and though the cordellete below as a backup while thinking 'I've gotta start switching on'.

(250Kg SWL, confidence inspiring)

Meanwhile Georgie is still making his way through pitch 2, he calls out to me "I just found a nut half in with a locker attached" 'Well now the mallions make sense, someone has bailed off the wall' I concluded. More than a few flared placements, a hero loop on a bent and cracked bolt head later and Georgie has found a bomber cam pocket. The only issue is a palm sized spider is already there, adamantly guarding her eggs. He has a decision, squish it with the nut tool or gentle manoeuvre the cam in beside her. Well Georgie decided the latter, the spider took offence and leaped into his lap, ran across it and launched off the other side. Meanwhile I'm still resting my head on the wall daydreaming about warmer places when I hear him shout out "SPIDER!" obviously confused I look up to see that there is large arachnid travelling at terminal velocity on a collision course with my face. Horrified, there is nothing I can do but stare and hope for the best when to my immense relief the spider managed to snag a weed and hold on to not 5 meters above me. With a deep sigh I go back to resting on the wall, trying to ignore the constant rain.

Upon my appearance at the belay for the third pitch Georgie is still hauling. "forget that, lets try a space haul" I instructed whilst preparing my leash, using myself as a counter weight Georgie was easily able to pull up on the haul line and we had the bag docked in no time. As we clean up the belay Georgie describes to me how when he unpacked the anchor kit two Photon lockers fell, 'damn' I thought, 'good thing we got spares'. I'm feeling absolutely terrible at this point, I decide to check the weather report again, non stop rain till Wednesday morning. I know my brains not functioning correctly, thinking is hard and my speech slow. I realise that with all our wet cloths, my already wet, faulty sleeping gear and Georgie's insufficient little tarp and hammock that we have a serious risk of going hypothermic tonight.

It is now 1530h, I explain my concerns to Georgie and after a short discussion we decide that even though we could make it to Big Grassy and setup a bivvy by dark, the risk outweighs the benefit. "Alright it’s settled; we will leave most the gear, rap off and go dry all the equipment tonight. Tomorrow will be a fresh day and we can come back and finish what we started" I concluded. We packed the wet gear and an empty water bottle into the hiking pack we had, Georgie accidentally dropped a plastic bag with 2 bog rolls in it, and we rappelled off at 1600h, still wearing the leader and 2nd racks, in the walk out we collected the dropped toilet paper and karabiners. My plans to make a movie are well and truly forgotten now, I will still try capturing some footage but nothing pre-planned.

The retreat:
Walking down to Crystal Brook in the rain, Georgie with loaded pack on decided now was a good time to practice some acrobatics by conducting a flip and rolling down the hill. It was spectacular and lightened the mood. Both of us completely forgot to fill the water bottle as we crossed the creek and started our uphill journey, swapping the pack every few hundred meters.

(The retreat, haul bag almost invisible on the wall)

The second time we got lost I mentioned "I'm glad we did this now, we can barely find the way in daytime, imagine if we had to retreat off the wall after dark" "yeah, no chance" Georgie solemnly replied

Severely dehydrated now, each step laboured we get to the car park, it is getting dark. We dump the pack in the hut where there are still warm coals in the fire place. I walk to the car and bring it down to the hut as I'm not carrying that pack any further. Georgie and I warm by the fire place for a short while before departing to find a drycleaner in Bright.

There is no drycleaner in Bright so we settle for the local Coles to get water and Gatorade, lots of Gatorade. As we step out of the car we both almost fall, our legs feel like jelly, "that’s one hell of a walk" exclaims Georgie. I feel drunk, my mind is playing up, and the world is blurry and moving. 'I'm really not doing well, good thing we retreated' I thought. After drinking our fill Georgie had a feed, I couldn't eat a bite. He took the front seat while I curled up in my soggy sleeping bag, half in the boot, and half on the folded back seat.

DAY 3 - TUESDAY:
I woke at 0700h, it is still raining and I feel terrible, even worse than yesterday. We check Google and can't find a dry cleaner anywhere close, the only reasonable course of action is to find somewhere to stay with a laundry and dry out for the day. The weather should clear by tomorrow morning.

Off we go to Mt Beauty for the night, picking up breakfast along the way, and I can only manage two bites of a chicken and salad roll. While drying our equipment in a motel I discovered the seam lining on my bivvy bag has tore off, that’s why it was leaking; it was easily fixed with some duct tape.

Time for lunch, I still can't eat but manage to force two more bites down. Now we have warmed up I realise I am running a fever, 'ah, now the exhaustion and lack of appetite make sense' I thought. We have been drinking rehydration salts all day, I added a couple Panadol with Codeine to try break the fever and went to bed at 1430h.

(All the mountains hidden in cloud)

It is almost 1700h when I wake, feeling miles better, absolutely ravenous, I need food. We discuss our new plan over dinner, 1 and 1/2 pizzas each. We decide to leave at 0530h and make Big Grassy by 1200h. An afternoon storm is due between 1300 and 1800h so we can make a shelter at Big Grassy is needed. From there we will finish pitch 5 and 6 of Ozymandias Original by dark, we are moving too slowly to do the direct path we decided, and it will give us something to set our sights on for the next time.