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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
A 1st timer at Mount Pilot
McLennan
4/08/2004
8:26:41 PM
Hi, this is McLennan, on sunday I went climbing at mt pilot with A5iswhereitsat and climbau, who were very patient and informative which makes me very lucky that I was with them on my first climb. Once we met up at the car park it was a short walk to the first climb which was sort of an introductoy climb for me with an easy root to spot and quite mellow but still one of the best things I've ever done, before the next climb (grade 9 - 12 metres high).
The next, I think I jumped ahead of myself and couldn't complete the climb, it started as a wide gap which I could chimney up but thinned out so I would have to turn around and get a good grip on the gap with my hands to get up, but no hard feelings because I learnt alot about technique, thanks to A5iswhereitsat and climbau(grade19 - 35 metres).
Then the final rock for the day was sort of perfect for my level, it was high with good exposure and there was no real opportunity to pre think my steps to a very high distance ahead which made it good and challenging, near the top there was a small crack which came as somewhat a relief that it wasn't smooth all the way to the top (grade 12 - 40 metres), all in all it was an awsome, eye opening and thrilling day and I hope to go climbing again "as soon as possible"!

climbau
4/08/2004
8:48:07 PM
Glad you had a good day McLennan. The climbs in order are called Auto Pilot (12m Gr9), A Room With A View (35m Gr19) and Yeddonba Wall (40m Gr12). I believe they're all classics of Mt Pilot, most people who go to Mt Pilot just go to Bakery Wall. There are some really good climbs on the other walls which just don't seem to get climbed.
Anyway Alex, we'll organise another day soon.
Cheers
Andrew.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5/08/2004
8:41:58 AM
On 4/08/2004 McLennan wrote:
>The next, I think I jumped ahead of myself and couldn't complete the climb,
I think climbau sandbagged us; or did not want us to become too complacent?
It was an eyeopener for me also, seeing a marginal #1/2 friend rip under 'resting' load after wasting my endurance sussing the sequence to climb the crux ...

>Then the final rock for the day was sort of perfect for my level, it was
>high with good exposure and there was no real opportunity to pre think
>my steps to a very high distance ahead which made it good and challenging,
>near the top there was a small crack which came as somewhat a relief that
>it wasn't smooth all the way to the top
Yeah! Yeddonba Wall is a classic for the grade. The 1st half of it is slab, and the top half is slab with a perfect finger-locks crack splitting it in a steeply rising left-diagonal line.
The original top-belay for the climb is pretty ordinary though; since the 2003 bushfires have killed the tree that it consisted of. Climbau rigged a second (full length) rope back to the next good natural anchor, ... so this climb needs a couple of discreet bolts for a belay to ensure others enjoy it as much as we did.

>I hope to go climbing again "as soon as possible"!
Glad to hear it. Who knows? ... one day you may even want to be indoctrinated into the nuances of aid-climbing!!
It was a good day all around; re weather, location, rock and company.
McLennan
5/08/2004
6:47:14 PM
Well A5 I definately agree with you about the weather, it was phenomenal considering the weather we've been having in general lately, some real luck! look forward to our next climb. Thanks climbau, it'd be awsome to go out climbing again soon.

Paulie
10/08/2004
4:22:58 AM
Glad to see you liked the area and jumped on some harder stuff also.

I definately think that the top of Yeddonba Wall could do with a couple of carrots...maybe in the boulder behind the where the tree used to be, or down the slab a bit?

Paulie

IdratherbeclimbingM9
10/08/2004
2:10:15 PM
On 10/08/2004 Paulie wrote:
>I definately think that the top of Yeddonba Wall could do with a couple
>of carrots...
I think climbau is sussing borrowing the appropriate gear to do it right, with the installation of a couple of SS bolts for a belay.

The single existing carrot (quite runout) looks 'long-necked' and bent also, presumably from overhammering?; ... as its not as if it would be taking huge whippers being a slab and all ...
Do you have any thoughts on its replacement in the same hole Paulie (or who else should we be speaking to?)

Also what are your thoughts on protecting for the potential groundfall start? (ie retro-adding one additional bolt about half way between the existing one and the start); ... since its too good a beginners 'learn to lead' climb to leave in the state it is.

If the answer is nay then thats cool with me as I would accept the 1st ascentionists wishes, however I think its potentially a classic that deserves more (beginner) traffic, ... which it would get if it was a little saner for them?


nmonteith
10/08/2004
2:21:14 PM
On 10/08/2004 A5iswhereitsat wrote:
>>I definately think that the top of Yeddonba Wall could do with a couple
>>of carrots...
>I think climbau is sussing borrowing the appropriate gear to do it right,
>with the installation of a couple of SS bolts for a belay.

My only advice - don't use bash in carrots!



Paulie
12/08/2004
3:06:09 AM
Yeah I hand drilled and bolted that thing on lead one day (carrot was hammered in), so it's at a good stance. I would suggest pulling it and adding some nice new s/s glue ins, keep the adventure in the route though as most people solo it.

If you are talking about making it super safe, I guess it could do with another 2 (1 below and 1 above the existing bolt) carrots. Get in touch with Bob or John, they'll be only too happy to come and whack something into it! While they're at it, those 2 short routes at the start of the Bakery wall (21/17) could do with a couple of lower off carrots (accessible from the top) to avoid the mossy finish. This is getting off topic now...suggest opening this in the re-bolt forum?

Paulie

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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