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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 51
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Author
Thailand

Doc
11/09/2009
10:55:54 AM
Well its official, Im finally going on my Thailand trip mid November. We are having a week at Lao Liang
as well as spending some time in Krabi.
I need some advice re gear to take. i.e. how many draws, do I need slings etc. Having never climbed
there before this is very exciting. Also I have heard a lot about the salt damage. Is washing your gear on
return enough?
Any advice, suggested guide books or routes all appreciated. Im not used to the grading system but
have a comparison chart.
Will I be able to do the climbs can currently lead up to around 18 but thats indoor so barely a
comparison!

phil_nev
11/09/2009
11:12:25 AM
Novemeber is a good time to go, you will have a blast!!

Gear you will need:
- 60 metre rope
- 15 Draws (A few more can't hurt, espesially if you plan on projecting something)
- Coupel of Slings / Bail Biners
- GriGri & Normal belay device for rapping of any multipitches
- Sam Lightners Guidebook (The green one), best one out there
- Harness, Two pairs of boots & a F*&k load of chalk

When i got back i just washed my gear (Rope, harness, draws, the lot!!!) in the bathtub with fresh water, havnt had any post trip issues.

Havnt been to Lao Liang, so can'y comment on the routes there. Heaps of fun to be had down Krabi way though at most grades... Its an easy place to push yourself as well, typically the bolting is quite good and it's usualy easy to bail if you get stuck.

Cheers,

Phil



NZclimber
11/09/2009
12:05:25 PM
Where's this Koh Lao Liang place?

Having trouble finding it on a map, but info/ pics of it look pretty sweet.

Just impulse purchased rtn tickets to Krabi from Melb for $400 and now sussing what to do.

As in gear for Thailand, phil_nev is on the ball, a basic sport rack is all you need.
Plus sort yourself a spot on one of Wees DWS trips.
Wendy
11/09/2009
12:17:40 PM
On 11/09/2009 NZclimber wrote:
>Where's this Koh Lao Liang place?
>
>Having trouble finding it on a map, but info/ pics of it look pretty sweet.
>
>Just impulse purchased rtn tickets to Krabi from Melb for $400 and now
>sussing what to do.

Easy to impulse purchase when they are that cheap, I did the same earlier in the week!

Lao Liang is one of the islands off Trang. Eduardo was going to email me info re climbing around Trang (friendly reminder ...) til then, Lao Liang was all I could find online and only via the organised trip at railay.com. Anyone been there on their own steam? Or is it worth paying for the convenience of the transport/accomodation deal at railay.com?

gordoste
11/09/2009
12:47:48 PM
agree that the DWS trip is a must-do!!
audtracol
11/09/2009
3:22:51 PM
Lucky you, guess you've gotta climb somewhere seeming your climbing P is always bloody busy in melb. i've got the guide book for you.

dr box
11/09/2009
4:14:24 PM
head north to crazy horse too, chang mai. fantastic climbing up there, no ocean, but less wankers

dougal
11/09/2009
8:36:30 PM
There are soo many options in Thailand. What do you want to do. Sure tonsai is busy but for a reason. It's a great destination, unique, full of psyched climbers. Not many places you can go and immerse yourself in that type of environ. Stay open.

Liang is great - very different from mainland. Folks often use tonsai as base and take trips to 'laidback' destinations like this island. I was there with my family in jan this year. We stayed a week, I could've stayed a month. Tonsai, more vibe, a little excitement - both great and again I could've stayed there for a year (because there is so much rock). Haven't been to Chang Mai but friends have and love it. Again most repeat offenders use tonsai as base and make trips north and to islands.

Have a blast.

Incidentally I'm off to Yangshuo next year - who's been? Any recommendations?

Paulie
12/09/2009
11:34:58 AM
The climbs at Phi Phi Don are pretty awesome too, well worth the trip out there.

Eduardo Slabofvic
12/09/2009
11:44:22 AM
On 12/09/2009 Paulie wrote:
>The climbs at Phi Phi Don are pretty awesome too, well worth the trip out
>there.

Have the Phi Phi island have a dose of re-equipping? If so they really are excellent, but if not they would be death on a stick by now.

Here's a link to some topos on Koh Loaliang that I promised Wendy. I've not been there, but that may change shortly. www.railay.com/railay/climbing/loaliang_topos.shtml

Trang is the next big town south of Krabi. It's a bit inland, but not far, a short ride to the coast. The terrain is similar to around Krabi (i.e. lots of Karst towers). It's been 14 years since I was there, so no doubt many changes have happened, but there still should be a few crags left. I'm a little surprised its taken so long to develop as a climbing area.

Eduardo Slabofvic
12/09/2009
11:48:23 AM
Further to my post above.

There are definitely more routes on this island than are shown in the topos, as a friend of mine went there last year to establish new routes, and none of his routes are mentioned (unless his name has been edited out).

Paulie
12/09/2009
1:47:34 PM
On 12/09/2009 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>Have the Phi Phi island have a dose of re-equipping? If so they really
>are excellent, but if not they would be death on a stick by now.

Everything seemed fine to me, I whipped on a couple of routes and I'm still here... the hangers and bolts certainly looked new and bombproof with new slings on most things. That was 3 years ago now tho...

Eduardo Slabofvic
12/09/2009
2:19:20 PM
On 12/09/2009 Paulie wrote:
>That was 3 years ago now tho...

That sounds good. It was 14 years ago I was there and they were in a bad way.

Doc
14/09/2009
9:05:57 AM
Thanks everyone for some great advice. Bail biners I would never have thought of! Thanks Autracol for
loan of your guide book. Hopefully we can get a few climbs in before then.
Lao Loang is now officially booked and deposit paid. Looking at spending the week before based in
Railay. Anyone have suggestions re accomdation nearby? Doesnt have to be right on the beach.
audtracol
14/09/2009
11:32:43 AM
Hey there Alix,

Try Asiarooms.com and search railay krabi, that'll give you some options. I'll discuss more when i see you.

dougal
14/09/2009
2:17:27 PM
Stay in Railay if you answer yes to these questions.

1. I am a speedo wearing euro who wants to spend a week getting burnt and fat laying on a beach.
2. I want to spend lots of money for the privilage.
3. I am a speedo wearing euro who wants to spend a week getting burnt and fat laying on a beach.
4. I want to spend lots of money for the privilage.

Go to Tonsai - you have been warned :)

Doc
14/09/2009
4:39:27 PM
On 14/09/2009 dougal wrote:
>Stay in Railay if you answer yes to these questions.
>
>1. I am a speedo wearing euro who wants to spend a week getting burnt
>and fat laying on a beach.
>2. I want to spend lots of money for the privilage.
>3. I am a speedo wearing euro who wants to spend a week getting burnt
>and fat laying on a beach.
>4. I want to spend lots of money for the privilage.
>
>Go to Tonsai - you have been warned :)


God I hope i'm not a speedo wearer! The white pointers are on the beach!! Have booked two nights in
ao nang, am i on the right track there?
Dane
14/09/2009
5:59:58 PM
Which airline are you getting tickets from, I've been looking on and off for the past couple of months and it seems to be closer to $800 return...

Dane

dougal
14/09/2009
8:21:38 PM
Of course it's 'IMO.' It depends what you intend to do. Are you going there to climb? If so go straight to Tonsai. I climb but I went with my non climbing wife and two kids. Even she said she wouldn't bother with Ao Nang or Railay. So yes cancel the booking in Ao Nang. You'll be happy you did.

D.Lodge
14/09/2009
8:50:54 PM
We stayed at railay it was fine, but we were out of season(early august). We stayed at the ya ya resort cheap and good and also the diamond cave resort, again cheap and good but a bit further away from the cliffs( like 5 extra mins walk lol). Tonsai was really cheap but pretty rustic so really take your pick and haggle a bit. We stayed at these places in one trip.

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There are 51 messages in this topic.

 

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