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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	The Atridae	(General)	Main Wall	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Bolt on Atridae Wall? 6-Jul-2009 At 12:46:24 PM robertsonja

Message

On 6/07/2009 The good Dr wrote:
>I think you are mixing up your concepts. Trad climbing has always considered
>fixed protection as one of a myriad of protection options. How that is
>interpreted varies from person to person depending on their experience,
>ego, emotional state at the time, etc etc. The interpretation is hotly
>debated around the world, with entrenched views on all sides.
>
>I think what you are after is eschewing the use of fixed protection completely.
>This is not the view of Arapiles held the world over, the way it was developed,
>its continuing history and the way it will most likely be maintained. If
>you are after a zero fixed gear policy then Gritstone is the climbing medium
>for you.
>
>You should definitely avoid aid climbing, as some of those routes (classics
>like Ozy) are littered with your metal nemesis, and boy, would that lead
>to a flame war on Chocky if you took offense there. (M9 should be treated
>carefully, he is an animal when let off the leash ;)

In my foolishness and naivety I have confused clipping a piton eye with a bolt eye and a piton scar with a rusty stub.

I have climbed Ozy, and yes it is "littered". Another climb that has been "drilled into submission". Just buy yourself some etriers, and follow the bolt ladders, blown piton scars and rust stains to the top.