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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	The Northern Group	(General)	Echo Crag	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Eco Crag, Touch-Type? 24-Mar-2009 At 6:32:02 PM robertsonja

Message

Yes, my concerns are legitimate.

Our personal thoughts on Touchstone, or how it compares to other climbs is irrelevant. The issue of whether the approach is difficult or how many climbs you can get done in the area in a day is something we can all debate.

The point is that Touchstone has been climbed for generations as a pure traditional climb. The fact is now there are bolts en route which negates the need to build a traditional anchor(s) if you do choose to belay from these positions. If you don’t choose to belay from the major ledge you now may as well just clip the new anchor with a quickdraw on the way through!

Yes, the rap stations do make access/decent a lot easier, but that is what bolted anchors tend to do…..…make things easier. There is a bitumen road to the bottom of the crag, how easy shall we make it.

Yes, Touch-Type does only have a few metres of climbing at the grade, yes I was surprised and yes the wall was attractive….. and yes my argument is that these bolts do interfere with neighbouring routes, and the ethics and atmosphere of Arapiles. Touch-Type follows a neighbouring route for half its length, has a suggested rap in (it’s hardly the Verdun Gorge), a few metres of climbing at the grade, (1m per bolt?), already lies between a variant…….if it looks contrived, if it feels contrived….and if there is no decent protection for a new route in a traditional climbing area….that says something to me.

The fact that 3 of the first ascentionists live at Natimuk and have 90 years experience is besides the point, but maybe less time should be spent drilling and more time searching cars on the way through for such contraband. (I live in Fitzroy and have been top roping at Werribee for 3 months).

I have no doubt that some of us have spotted plenty of new routes at Arapiles, as so have I, we all deserve a pat on the back for not bolting up all the blank rock.

I wish we were just debating our opinions but unfortunately the rock has already been chipped and drilled. I wasn’t looking for sympathy, more so I was asking that the first ascentionists remove all of their antiquated ironmongery.