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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Oceanoid 9-Apr-2009 At 11:26:45 AM bluey

Message

I am always bemused by the onsight/flash etc debate.

Most climbs I lead, I read the guide but ideally avoid beta from other people (sometimes you can't avoid it cos you mention the climb and people go ON and ON and ON about it). Sometimes when I know a lead will be a challenge for me in terms of style or just cos it's got a reputation, I'll ask people for beta or second it first and come back to lead another day. That's my personal ethics.

At the end of the day tho, chatting around the campsite, I never distinguish between whether I truly onsighted or flashed or whatever - I'd be more likely to mention a fall or rest as part of the story. I'll happily tell people if it was the first time I'd gone anywhere near the climb, or I'd seconded the climb before or if person X gave me some good tips, but to actually say "I did an awesome onsight today", or "it was just a flash" just sounds pretentious.

I would have thought most casual climbers get beta so they feel safe on a climb they perceive as being a significant challenge, rather than just so they can claim a hollow victory over more and harder climbs - so why be picky about the level of beta involved in someone else's ascent?