Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	The Bluffs	(General)	Bluff Major	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Scorpion 26-Mar-2009 At 9:31:13 PM freesolo

Message

hey mate, if you're at the 18 limit, scorpion will be a real test. it's old school, crack and groveling part of the way. definitely one of the best routes at araps for any grade, but i say that cause i'm a crack climber.

i ran out the top cause the jams are bomber but you should bring one 3.5/4 camalot, but dont use it too early, be creative with gear when you come out of the "chimney area" back on to the face.

the move from the exposed stance at the beginning, getting into the chimney is physically pretty easy, but mentally pretty tough cause the gear only gets better after you do the move.

give a shout back here when you've done it and let everyone know. if you're obsesesed with onsighting and not enjoying the experience, you probably wont like the route.

you dont need anything small, i remember needing .5 to 1.5's and then one big cam.

one thing to keep in mind. your belayer wont be able to see you for 90% of the route and you wont be able to hear or see him when you are at the top. if you don't make it, you can lower down to the anchors on the 22, climb missing link, rap down and get your gear.

i'm jealous wish i was there to do it again.