On 28/01/2009 pmonks wrote:
>Do "Elspeth" as your first climb - it's only a 10m grade 14!!
Awesome sandbag action - gave me a chuckle when I read the following description courtesy of another Monks:
"** Elspeth 12m 14 (OS)
A bloody magnificent route for its length, following the vertical R wall of a steeply overhanging arete, and forcing you out over the void! Set natural anchor, then an absolutely pants filling 12m rap down a corner (Steel City Blues, 9) to a small ledge perched above 80m of nothing. Despite the exposure turning your brain to jelly, avoid your survival instinct telling you to wimp out up SCB, and step L off the ledge (gulp!). Edge across the wall to massive exposure, jugs, and some gear. Trend up and L (gulp!!) to break, and plug in as many cams as will fit - you’ll need ‘em! (6 is the record....) Balancy move to slopy break, then insecurely work L to the very arete (gulp!!!) to negotiate the crux 2m out from your gear with the much appreciated assistance of totally mindsnapping exposure!!! All I can say is, if you use the L hand sidepull about 20cm around the arete, you have to eyeball the void beneath that tiny left foothold - and that ain’t a good thing for your state of mind! Anyway, sling the thank-god jug and finish up short groove to slopy mantle top out. Oh, and bring your photographer…"
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/9987/ptperp.htm |