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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
New Mirrorball Raps - Pierces Pass 29-Dec-2008 At 9:45:35 AM mikl law
The abseil anchors on the Lunch Ledge have been changed a bit. There are now three to speed descents. The one above Mirroball was altered to reduce mess and wear on the ledge and to allow easier pulling down. There are often people on this route, and there may be some rockfall.
1)The anchor on the Lunch ledge for the Mirrorball rap (old backed up tree) has been replaced by an anchor on the ledge below. There is a rope to protect the scramble down to it.
2)There are 2 anchors in the notch between the pinnacle and the mainland at the second abseil. If it's windy use the "downwind" anchor (i.e. if the wind's coming from the left, use the right anchor) to stop the rope being blown into the chimney when you pull it down.

The Weaselberger/Bergermeister rap is faster than the Mirrorball rap, the useless anchor (it jammed many ropes) above Weselberger has been extended to the edge (and could do with a new 5m piece of static rope) and a ring added there so your rope won't jamb. Clip in and go over the edge, thread the biner on the static and the U. Itís a 45m rap to ledge 10m up pitch 2, on the left side of this ledge is a double U/ring anchor. Then itís a 45m rap to ground.

There is also a more convenient (clean pulls, not abseiling down over anyone) abseil halfway between them. The U's are above the end of Lunch Ledge about 20m right of Mirrorball after the block, and 10m left of Weaselberger. Clip in with a long sling to set the ropes as you are on a sloping ledge a long way up:-
1)First rap 46m to obvious ledge with no apparent anchor (!), traverse left 4m still on abseil to anchor on "Attack of the Wicked Wedgie Women"
2)Second rap to ground (one party have done this with no ill effect, but I don't know the exact distance, I'm guessing a 50m rope will do the trick).

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