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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Cosmic County. Rebolting?

Cranky
15/01/2009
11:53:29 AM
I have not climbed at the county for 10-15 years. Does anyone know if there has been any rebolting done?

tnd
15/01/2009
11:56:56 AM
Several routes have been rebolted with glue-in s/steel carrots in recent times, and some lower-offs fitted. People who care are trying to keep the area a ring-free zone.
yosemite05
15/01/2009
12:30:07 PM
Climbed there the other day, track in is almost overgrown. A sign on the fire trail in is asking to call a mobile number for access. Stakes littered with lot numbers past big tree suggests access is over more private property. Walking Wounded is now ring bolted and first bolt has been removed since rebolting. The question should be does anyone still climb at Cosmic and what is the current access whilst still parking on main road near log cabin resort.

tnd
15/01/2009
1:08:43 PM
Preferred access from the land owners' point of view is to park at the Dam Cliffs top car park and walk along the rail line from there.

Access from every direction is across private land and there is no permissible way to drive there. The resultant longish walk has contributed to a reduction in visits to the crag. No problem with that, when you do go you have it to yourself!
citationx
15/01/2009
1:12:21 PM
>Access from every direction is across private land and there is no permissible
>way to drive there. The resultant longish walk has contributed to a reduction
>in visits to the crag. No problem with that, when you do go you have it
>to yourself!

Where is this private property that you have to cross? before or after the five-ways tree? if it's before the tree then that would mean access to the freezer is also underthreat/non-existent?
confirmations?
Lhotse
15/01/2009
1:16:40 PM
Gentlemen's Drag has ring anchors at the top of it now.
Get on it... it's tradlicious.

:-)

wombly
15/01/2009
1:57:22 PM
went down there a couple of months ago, and there were three separate parties - so it's a furphy to suggest that it's no longer being used!

Tonyk
15/01/2009
2:40:38 PM
On 15/01/2009 tnd wrote:
>Several routes have been rebolted with glue-in s/steel carrots in recent
>times, and some lower-offs fitted. People who care are trying to keep the
>area a ring-free zone.

Cosmic was one of the first places I went climbing and therefor holds a very special place in my
climbing memory. Whilst there is definitely need for some of the old bolts to come out and new ones to
go in it would be a great shame to see it become just another shiny stainless clip up affair (not that
this is likely given the access at the moment). The crag has great character and is a testament to the
vision of developers (all be it with some not so minimal impact ethics) .

Long live fumbling with bolt plates. Go Austraila!!

tnd
15/01/2009
2:45:06 PM
On 15/01/2009 citationx wrote:
>Where is this private property that you have to cross? before or after
>the five-ways tree? if it's before the tree then that would mean access
>to the freezer is also underthreat/non-existent?
>confirmations?

If you have a look at the subdivisions http://maps.google.com.au/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=petra+ave+clarence+nsw&sll=-25.335448,135.745076&sspn=55.76764,62.490234&ie=UTF8&ll=-33.486185,150.226836&spn=0.012975,0.015256&z=16

you'll see that you have to walk across private land when accessing from the north. That's not a problem at the moment as the landowners (one of whom is a well known climber and original developer of the County) are fine with that. The problem is that some idiots have managed to get hold of keys (presumably copies of Railcorp ones) in the past and used them to drive in. That is a no-no.
yosemite05
15/01/2009
3:13:35 PM
There is a white stake with a Lot number(could be 745) halfway down the dirt road between the 5 ways and the crag. The sign with the phone number is near the stake. Is this the private land owned by the well known climber or did he recently purchase the McLog lifestyle mansion that was up for sale which you walk past if parking here. Could Macciza have purchased this property as last I heard he was looking at purchasing something.

tnd
15/01/2009
3:26:20 PM
Won't go into details of specific someone's residence, but the McLog is still for sale as far as I know. Buy it and you can have guaranteed access!

Let's hope Macca doesn't or he'll take all the bolts out... ;-)
spicelab
15/01/2009
4:02:24 PM
On 15/01/2009 yosemite05 wrote:

>Walking Wounded is now ring bolted and first bolt has been removed since
>rebolting.

If this means that the retro-bolting included a new ring before the cam placements, the removal is fair enough. If you refer to the bolt after that - what was originally the carrot that you had to clip with a wire if you were less than 6 ft (haven't climbed it since) - removing this would be dodgy as hell.

wombly
15/01/2009
4:52:15 PM
>If this means that the retro-bolting included a new ring before the cam placements, the removal >is fair enough. If you refer to the bolt after that - what was originally the carrot that you had to >clip with a wire if you were less than 6 ft (haven't climbed it since) - removing this would be >dodgy as hell.

Not sure what it looked like before the re-bolt, but there is no gear before the cam placements. the shiny ring is a sane distance above that - from memory you can clip it from where you stand up into the undercling. Near as I can see the rebolt actually reduced the # of bolts on the climb, but has made clipping the one out on the lip considerably easier.


Cranky
16/01/2009
4:45:03 PM
Thanks for the replies.
I intend to head out there when the weather cools off a bit.
The County has lots of classic wall routes, starting in the lower grades. I'm surprised that not many people go there, at least it will feel like the old days with the crag to yourself.

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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