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Crag & Route Beta

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North Island NZ

wombly

17-Dec-2008
10:26:29 AM

I'm being dragged off (mostly willingly) to the North Island for a couple of weeks of mountain biking over the christmas break. I'm keen to sneak in a bit of climbing while i'm over there. Apart from Paynes Ford, any good ideas on where to go? Bouldering might be the best plan, but I might be able to sneak a rope and draws in the pack...

NZclimber

17-Dec-2008
11:00:52 AM

Hi Wombly,
I'm from Nth Island so I know a few places to go.
They're mostly central but thats still a short drive from any coast in the island.
You would want to check out Wharepapa South, there's a climbing hostal there also for accomodation.
Have a camp out Whanganui Bay (which is my favourite) on the shore of Lake Taupo.
These are the two main spots in the Nth Island, a lot of smaller crags scattered around but these are the most centralised and with the most climbs.
Almost all sport climbing so you won't have a carry a mahsive rack if your travelling light.
I lived in Taupo and these plus loads of smaller crags were within 1hr max drive from there if you wanna base there for a few days. My after work crag was Kinlock, bout 15min drive from Taupo. Can do the hike out to Kawakawa Bay from there too 1.5-2hrs walk, really beautiful spot. Check out Reparoa crag if you do go to Taupo, was just being developed when I left, with some fun lines.
If you want to boulder, I guess Waitomo would be the best spot to try in Nth Island.

www.freeclimb.co.nz
It has topos and good directions to most of the Nth Island crags, except for Whanganui Bay- you need to buy the book, Whanganui Rock.

Hope this helps, have fun!

nmonteith

17-Dec-2008
11:25:12 AM

Wharepapa South is a great area. Really fun super pocketed sport climbing - like an easy version of the Frankenjura. Heaps of quality in the sub 24 grades, not much of worth tougher than that.

wombly

17-Dec-2008
11:58:55 AM

Looks like there's some potential then :) thanks!

WM

17-Dec-2008
12:29:19 PM

I walked around 3 or 4 of the Wharepapa Sth crags one day (too wet to climb) and was surprised how short the routes were - Frogatt in particular was pretty disappointing in stature considering it gets a fair bit of press. though the pockety rock in the area looked like it would climb really well

Mt Maunganui has a few even smaller routes and a climbing gym ... which is only worth mentioning because its next to a nice beach

NZclimber

17-Dec-2008
12:42:03 PM

Yeah Frogatt is rather small, I think the tallest climb is Monsterpiece Theatre >30m grade 20 through a roof section. It's fun though

torque

17-Dec-2008
12:43:52 PM

I lived on the north island for about 3 years and climbed heaps there.

Wharepappa (pronounced far-a-pappa, sort of) is great. Yeah the routes are mostly under 20 meters, but heaps of fun, and real good quality sport climbing (imho).

I'll second Whaganui Bay - very wicked. It is maori land, and the deal is you go to visit Mary on arrival to say hi and pay for camping (I think it is like 2 bucks). The road in can be a handful in the wet. Spectaular locatation and great climbing. There is a 'pub' there that you may be able to find .. and if you are lucky some locals may give you a fresh fish or two for dinner.. if you're not maori tho you are not allowed to fish - FYI.
It is a very special place.

One more place I reccomend even more is Te Ananui - on the coromanel peninsula. Have to go at low tide, but this place is AWESOME! One of the nicest locations I have climbed at (its on a beach, surrounded by cliffs).. Some good trad climbing here, be wary of the rock quality tho.

check out:
www.freeclimb.co.nz

I was over there about a month ago - and some climbing mates lead me to believe there were some new 'secret' areas being opened up. Around mangetopop (sp?) area - Central north island.. if you go to the indoor Gym (Extreme edge) on a wed or thurs night you will find people to grill for beta..

Have fun!

skink

17-Dec-2008
2:23:13 PM

On 17/12/2008 wombly wrote:
>I'm being dragged off (mostly willingly) to the North Island for a couple
>of weeks of mountain biking over the christmas break. I'm keen to sneak
>in a bit of climbing while i'm over there. Apart from Paynes Ford, any
>good ideas on where to go? Bouldering might be the best plan, but I might
>be able to sneak a rope and draws in the pack...

Where on the North Island will you be based?

wombly

17-Dec-2008
2:29:49 PM

>Where on the North Island will you be based?

Not entirely sure yet, as i'm not really driving the agenda. Will fly into/out of Auckland, and have hired a
car...

Sally

18-Dec-2008
6:56:23 AM

Walk the Tongariro crossing- World class experience. Go to a west coast beach. Visit a Marae (maori
Meeting house complex)
Big climbs are down south mainly but there may be some at either Ruapehu or Taranaki ie: the
mountains. I don't know these areas but know there is some trad climbing and that people who have
climbed there rate it. Ask on mojozone.co.nz

PS Paynes ford is in the South Island

wombly

12-Jan-2009
4:52:41 PM

Thanks for the advice guys. I managed to squeeze in a few days climbing on our 'rest' days. Had a great
day out at Whanganui bay, and scored a couple of half days at Whereapapa south. It's a crazy location
to house so many climbs, and camping at the school quite a novelty.

If I had a bit more time i'd certainly drag the trad rack over, but a light sport rack did the trick in this
instance. All in all I was reasonably impressed with both areas, and would love to go back to for a more
extended visit, or just to chill out. Not sure how my tips would handle it though - sheridan in particular
was quite brutal.

There are 11 messages in this topic.