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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Sweet Dreams, Sublime :Point
10:25:03 PM
Thinking of doing Sweet Dreams on Saturday but I've never been on it before. It appears to be mostly bolted. What other gear do I need? And any idea how many bolt plates I'd need? And any other advice/comments?

11:28:27 PM
Going off my bad memory here, even 8 bolt plates should be enough, the pitches are short. As for the gear, I use a few hexes on the early pitches and a nut or two on the final (17 variant) pitch.

I prefer to belay at the sitting stance immediately at the end of the traverse pitch, then link it up to the sandy corner, then step left to the 17 variant (the first bolt is just out of sight to the left).

Don't climb past the first bolt (without clipping it I mean) on the traverse (third) pitch, doing so appears pretty popular.
Winston Smith
8:46:14 AM

You'll need trad gear on the first and second pitches. Each has a few stray bolts here and there.

The traverse is easy and bolted but ensure that you find the first bolt which is up and right from the second belay.

The fourth pitch is short and bolted or else run it and the fourth and fifth (also bolted) together to the belay on the big ledge.

Final pitches:

Grade 17 variant. Bolted for 2/3 of its length from the bottom up but needs gear - wires etc at the top. Also ensure you clip first bolt at bottom - a little hard to see but look for it, it can be clipped from the ground - to avoid factor 2 fall.


Two final trad pitches; 1. up corner to scary but easy traverse. 2. Up final headwall. Couple of bolts.

OR: Some folks climb part of the way up the corner then strike across left onto face where there is a stray bolt thus avoiding grade 17 crux start.

10 bolt plates should be more than enough including for belays which are all bolted.

4:51:15 PM
depends how much gear you want in.

try #1, #2 camalots + some med wires.
if you really want to stitch it up maybe some smaller cams, but i think wires should get you through

on the first pitch you can sling a tree.
second pitch theres a flake + horizontal breaks and one or two bolts from memory.
do the 17 final pitch variant - you can place a couple of nuts when the bolts run out. Ring bolt belay @ top.

anyways read what other people have said too, everyone goes about it diff

ps 8 bolt plate maybe 10 to be sure ;-)

12:09:06 PM
first pitch. bolt. 0.5cam (to protect 2nd from mega penji) bolt. tree. 2bb..
2nd pitch. 0.75cam, #2 or #3 cam. hard to see bolt. 2bb.
3rd pitch. lots of bolts (first is 1m right, 3or4m above belay) best to combine pitch 3 and first half pitch 4 to mailon and bb.
4th pitch. 3 0r 4 bolts (little bit run-out). 2bb
5th pitch. up corner (vatious nuts cams) no bolts. step right 2m to big cam belay (#3-#4 cam)
pitch 6. up dinnerplates with couple of nuts tree belay.
var p5. across ledge to arete. clip bolt, and up past bolts and couple of nuts/small cams then up easy ramp to ring bolts. grade 17
var p5. up corner for 15m (nat pro.) traverse left 3m (bolt). then up steep headwall (0.5cam) and short corner (nuts) to ring belay. grade 15.
take 13 brackets if linking pitches.
hope youve left. looks like rain this arvo.
6:31:15 PM
only time ive placed gear on sweet dreams is doing the old school version of the last pitch so if you feel fine at the grade i wouldnt bother taking the extra weight, 10ish bolt plates should see you through no worries
8:48:40 PM
30 mins car to car. Two people, bolts only, simul climbing.
9:42:23 PM
Wow! I'm sure Hirayama and Florine will fly out to better that!!

There are 8 messages in this topic.


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