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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Camel's Hump Eastern Outcrops (General) [ Camels Hump Guide | Images ] 

Author
Climbs btw Locris and Owen Glyndower - Back Wall

jkane
21/04/2008
12:20:11 PM
I'm looking for info on these climbs, especially the one immediately left of Owen Glyndower. I reckon it was about 14/15. It had a 3 or 4 FH and then optional natural gear near the top. Anyone know the name of this climb and if it was published somewhere. I can't find it in the latest NW guide or the VCC new routes area. Save me trawling through old copies of Argus/Rock etc.
dalai
21/04/2008
12:31:23 PM
Was covered in the Safer cliffs - North Western topic.

For those without access comments in regards to these climbs.

On 19/02/2007 robin wrote:
>I did get up to the back wall on saturday & took a few notes and sketched
>a rough topo. My notes were.
>
>1. News From Home 20m 15 appears to finish left up a groove/crack not
>right as described in the guide (the section that I edited?). There is
>absolutely no protection finishing to the right and to reach any sort of
>feature/crack is well into groundfall territory. Looking at an old description
>in the Rock guide it simply says "climb up the boss (BR), finishing up
>groove." I would suggest the groove is left, not right. I do recall attempting
>this climb in recent years as a warm up and bailing out when I got into
>groundfall territory.
>
>2. Unknown 1 20m 13. Starts 3m right of NFH. 4 FH's, trad placement
>to finish optional
>
>3. Unknown 2 20m 15. Starts at Skippy heading left to old FH. Up past
>4 more FH's tending left near top. Trad placement near top optional.
>
>4. Skippy. Climb the groove & clip anything within reach.
>
>5. Unknown 3 about 2m R of Skippy. Not sure if this has been done but
>there is a low fixed hanger then another on high just left of the finishing
>grove. These FH's could be part of Skippy but appear to be not in very
>good positions for that climb. U3 probably need one bolt in the middle
>to complete the climb.
>
>6. Brian Boru. Starts about 1m R of Unknown 3. Rusty carrot then finish
>up cracks to right of groove.
>
>7. Locris. Ugly chimney
>
>8. Unknown 4 20m 15 Starts 3m right of Locris. 4 FH's, natural belay.
>1st FH optional?
>
>I agree with Neil this area would be well served by one set of well positioned
>rap anchors. Note this is a good area for easier grade climbs and suitable
>for top roping.
>
>Also does anyone know who has put up these new routes?
>
>I will send in my rough topos to the Argus (VCC).

billk
21/04/2008
12:41:19 PM
There are two FHs at the top of Unknown 2/ Skippy, which I worry people might try to rap off.
dalai
21/04/2008
12:43:35 PM
A chain was going to be fitted via shackles to these bolts to create an abseil anchor. Not sure though if it was done.

billk
21/04/2008
1:50:48 PM
I was last up there in January. It hadn't been done then.

I don't think the walkoff from those climbs is too bad but seing as it is hardly adventure climbing, a rap station makes more sense.

jkane
22/04/2008
12:41:04 AM
Thanks. Still a bit of a mystery then. You are right, the walk off is not that bad but it's quite steep and could eventually start to suffer from erosion (I saw some early signs). A rap station is probably a good idea. What would the cost of that be roughly? Maybe I could donate towards it.

westie
22/04/2008
9:31:38 AM
Wouldn't bother.

Neil has the chain to fit to it. Just PM him to remind him. He's been meaning to attach it for over 12 months!

westie
22/04/2008
9:35:18 AM
On 21/04/2008 dalai wrote:

>>2. Unknown 1 20m 13. Starts 3m right of NFH. 4 FH's, trad placement
>>to finish optional

FYI a few climbers reckon this is 16. Great fun climb.

>>3. Unknown 2 20m 15. Starts at Skippy heading left to old FH. Up past
>>4 more FH's tending left near top. Trad placement near top optional.

Might be 16 as well just for the bouldery start.

While talking about the vicinity, someone I climbed with there this year thought Space Jugging overgraded and more like a 13/14. What do people reckon?

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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