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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Margarine Ridge - Blue Mountains 5-Apr-2008 At 12:31:15 AM mankrambler
60 m ropes useful, some pitches are rope stretchers. we had to simul on one bit, with a 55 m rope. speed is important (but there are suitable bivvy ledges; to do the canyon as well in one day would be a big job) and communication can be an issue from distant belays, especially if windy. Route finding skills will be tested.

...I found that the final pitch needs a no.4 camalot (what I had) or greater (some canny folks might be able to wiggle a huge hex in, but I doubt it). It would be a horrendous fall from this delicate slabby bridging pitch even with the cam (to take two would be best, although the weight adds up...). This final pitch is nice, but there are probably other more boring ways of getting this final part done. Definitely one of those old "the leader never falls" climbs.

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