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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Introductory climbs at the grade at Buffalo 7-Dec-2007 At 8:41:08 PM surfinclimb

Message

>>What I'd love to see is someone with a power drill head up to Buffalo,
>and put up a few more moderate routes with lots of bolts. A non-scary
>route up Mackey's lookout for example would be an instant classic.
>
>JamesMc
I agree wholeheartedly James. Mt Buffalo appears to have been a sandbagging macho fest in the past in regard to grading and bolting and the 1 climb that does have a few bolts in it up there (Madusa?) gets slamed in the guide book for being over bolted. Have a quick flick through the guide and you will quickly see that all the sub 18-20 climbs were put up by crew climbing 5-7 grades harder than that, no wonder its seen as under protected in many peoples eyes as the crew that were putting up the climbs didnt really need the protection at that grade.
Anyway its an awesome place and if you want to go and put up new well protected climbs then there is plenty of fresh rock out there.