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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Author
Bouldering at Buffalo?
AndyCJ
14/11/2007
9:24:22 AM
I may head up to Buffalo with the family this weekend, but Marion is preggers - so she doesn't fit the harness at the moment.

Anyone know where I should head for come quality boulding in the area?

Cheers,
Andy

nmonteith
14/11/2007
9:32:00 AM
Mostly its pretty non-existant. The rough and rounded nature of the rock doesn't exactly create bouldering
materpieces. There is some okish problems on the wall and boulders opposite the Cricket Pitch (south
side of gorge), and alledgely some good problems in behind the Chalet somewhere. There was a guy who
worked as a guide up there a few years ago that told me he had done a lot of bouldering near the Chalet.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
14/11/2007
9:46:23 AM
I am aware of a number of people who have bouldered sporadically at Buffalo over a number of years now, but what they have done is largely undocumented and more a word of mouth thing amongst the cognoscenti.

Amongst the geographically quite spread out problems done I hear there are some excellent ones, but from what I have observed nm is right about the rough and rounded nature of the rock. It seems that the easy access options in the vicinity of Chalet (and also other carpark areas), have had the most attention.

Paulie
14/11/2007
10:22:03 AM
There is some bouldering on the large boulders behind the chalet (go past the cafe), in particular there's an upside down (roof) problem on the boulder on your right look for the huge chalked holds (near the pipe).

Additionally there are some good problems on the track down from the main gorge carpark (heading towards Beowulf etc), the 1st is a thin crack on your right then there are various sloping topped things and slabs most of which have been climbed.

There is more bouldering along the Catani - Chalet road including a horrendous overhanging thin hands problem and some good faces on some boulders both on your right and left about 1/2 way along.

There is also heaps more in the boulders directly behind the campground with some very hard crimpy highball things to completey blow out your tips!

Enjoy!
kieranl
14/11/2007
11:39:08 AM
Also some stuff around the Leviathan. A pumpy flake traverse under the leviathan itself and a knobbly face just up the road from tha car park.
People also used to boulder on a roadside block just downhill from the main gorge carpark - the face was created by roadmaking so isn't natural.
AndyCJ
14/11/2007
1:54:25 PM
Thanks for the replies everyone - if I do get up there I'll let everyone know what I find.

Cheers,
Andy
Dave J
14/11/2007
2:03:28 PM
I remember seeing an absolutely awsome arete hanging out over the north wall.... a tricky sit down which
was safe and then a significantly easier but scary as hell finish....I never dared but it was definitely the
most inspiring bit of climbing I saw at buffalo.

maybe not ideal for someone who is expecting a child shortly though.

Paulie
14/11/2007
2:19:25 PM
On 14/11/2007 kieranl wrote:
>Also some stuff around the Leviathan. A pumpy flake traverse under the
>leviathan itself and a knobbly face just up the road from tha car park.
>People also used to boulder on a roadside block just downhill from the
>main gorge carpark - the face was created by roadmaking so isn't natural.

Oh yeah those are good ones! The 2nd one almost always has chalk on it too.

Come to think of it there is a superb highball opposite the pumping station (just back from the cricket pitch), can't miss it, vertical climbing on big dykes, also on the switchback just below the Chalet is a nice 10mtr slab with some really good highball bouldering.

shiltz
19/11/2007
10:43:30 AM
A bit late now, but next time you are up there you might want to explore Dreamland with an eye to bouldering.

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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