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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	The Organ Pipes	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Chains above Tannin 19-Jun-2007 At 3:44:55 PM Organ Pipe

Message

I can't believe this!

I was at Araps on the weekend, and gave Tannin a go.
We'd just finished Ejeculation and downclimbed across to the base of Tannin. I figued that while we were in the area I'd give it a try. Up until this moment the hardest climb I've lead on trad was a 16.

My belayer and I only had his 60 meter with us and on reading the guide, I realised that I would not be able to rap from the chains. As my belayer was not keen to try seconding, climbing past the chains and walking off was not an option either as my gear would be left dangling all over the face.

So I figured I'd see how far I could get up the wall, then downclimb and clean.
I was in a really confident mood, and the gear was far better than I was expecting, so I quickly found my self past the lip. The downclimb was a bit more challenging than I was expecting, particularly due to a wire I'd placed prior to the traverse under the roof. I'd set it really hard and it sapped alot of time trying to dislodge it one armed.
Long story short, I made it back down safely and was stoked and confident that Tannin would be my first tick for the next trip.

Then I log onto Chockstone and read that I could have completed it with the 60m rope we had at the time!!! AARRGGGHHH!!!!!!!!