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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Cracking the 23 ceiling? 4-Jun-2007 At 9:46:36 PM spicelab

Message

On 4/06/2007 simey wrote:
>The first part of Milk Blood does have the best wire placements I have
>seen on any climb in the world. However the placements in the top part
>of the route (the crux) aren't quite as fantastic and you need to exercise
>a bit more care as a few of the cracks flare (but good placements are available
>though).

There is an absolutely stonking #5 wire placement for the upper half that you can place from the fairly painful pinky fingerlock with your left hand. From there it's only a few metres to the top at most. If you miss this however...

Milk Blood is funny - so vintage Arapiles, looks about 16 from the ground and quite slabby. I can't think of any other rock that is similarly confounding to read from the ground.