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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Eastern	Mt Buller	(General)	(General)	[ Bulla Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Mt Buller Ice Climbing Guide 22-May-2007 At 6:08:18 PM uwhp510

Message

Buller can be very good (for australia) scottish style mixed climbing, or it can be a nightmare of falling (or no) ice, loose rock and no climbing. It all depends on the weather of the week/day. For good conditions you need a good freeze and you need to be off the routes by about midday if its sunny. Mid August would be the absolute last bit of the season I would think (thanks to longer daylight hours keeping the rock above zero, hence the ice not sticking) but you could be lucky.

In terms of the routes, there are some obvious lines which get better and steeper the further around the west ridge you go. Me and some of the other bogong crew from a couple of years ago put up a few routes, some of which we described on this forum (do a search and you'll find them) and if you want I can probably do a rough topo of what we did, but the best plan I think is to go and get stuck in to whatever looks good. Take some pins and a small rock rack (and maybe a snarg if you've got one) and a picket to belay off. You'll be lucky to get an ice screw in anywhere apart from the waterfall, which might take a dogdy stubby screw.

There are a few bolts here and there and a strange chain hanging down at the crux of Going way out in the west, but in normal, rimed conditions you probably wont find them.