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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Northern	Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre	Taipan Wall	[ Taipan Images ]

Topic Date User

Seventh Pillar ***18 M2 9-May-2007 At 10:22:35 AM Organ Pipe

Message

On 7/05/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>Using wires over the heads of the mank bolts will be better as they protrude
>a fair bit.

Ahhh, yes I've done this before once. I'll keep that in mind. Maybe I can get away with the 3 bolt plates that I currently own.

On 7/05/2007 bomber pro wrote:
>...of 1m slings to step up on, at least
>as many as there are bolts on the ladder!
>you can make a small ladder from some webbing and just knot some steps
>into it, take this with you bolt
>to bolt and leave the 1m slings for the second to step up on.

Again great idea. I do have a fair bit of tubular sling material that I could tie into such a ladder actually + a heap of 1m slings. I'll definetly try the makeshift aider out of sling idea.

On 8/05/2007 gfdonc wrote:
>As mentioned earlier tie-offs can be used on the bolts, but I did end
>up using bolt plates mostly.

This brings me to another question: After readign the original thread right through, it seems as though a tie off is appropriate if the bolt hangs out from the wall a bit and you want your wire / bolt plate to sit close to the rock to minimise leverage. Is this really as simple as knotting some sling around the bolt shaft between the head and the plate to act as a 'spacer' of sorts? I would have thought that if the bolt is indeed droopy, or bent in such a way as to allow the plate to slide away from the wall towards the head, then during a fall, and sling spacer would get crushed, and the plate move out anyway?
Am I way off here? Does anyone have a picture of 'tie offs' that they would be willing to share?

On 9/05/2007 james wrote:
>I didn't need the stick to clip the bolt - just take a real deep breath
>& stretch!

I'm 6 foot 4 so hopefully, I'll be able to clip without the stick. However, for those that have climbed SP recently? is the stick still up there? If not I'd take one up and leave it behind.

Also, one last question for you all:
Many accounts of this climb talk about an early morning start, and early evening finish. Has anyone ever split it into 2 days? Begin at lunch time, sleep out, then complete at leasure? ie. is there a big enough ledge for a night out? The topo's seem to suggest not, but you never know!

Thanks again for the valuable info and tips.
For all the trolling, spam, arguing, etc that Chockstone sees, I'm still pumped by the wealth of expertice and advice you guys provide. Cheers!