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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ]

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Despatched

rjc

11-Jan-2007
11:49:34 AM

Hi everyone. Just after some clarification for the weekend. I don't have a guidebook here/at home to check. Looked at Despatched a while ago with a thought to doing it, and perhaps that time has come. I seem to remember it being 23 when I looked, but can see it as 24 on this site and crag's site? The line I thought was Despatched went off to the right from Thunder Crack's start, then up, then out right again etc. I presume Despatched Direct is some sort of direct start - can see that as 23 on this site. What's going on?! Which is better? Are they the same?

phil_nev

11-Jan-2007
11:55:00 AM

Its 23 in the current Mentz/Tempest Guide, starts at thundercrack and heads of right. I think the gear is pretty good, but spacey. Youd wana have a good calm head.
Most people seem to think its closer to 25 & absolutly classic.

nmonteith

11-Jan-2007
11:57:23 AM

It was 24 in Louise's guide. I have only seconded it many years ago - but i do remeber it beign pretty
tough - certainly more 24 than 23. The right travesre at the end of was pretty scary on second as you
climb down to the belay!

rjc

11-Jan-2007
12:08:18 PM

So we've got a spread of 23 to 25, with spaced but good gear, and a pants filler right at the end. All the signs of a Classic. Perhaps get a few more classic '23' s done first! No more beta though!

muki

11-Jan-2007
5:19:37 PM

When I did the route it was listed as bieng 23......but it feels harder, maybe just exposure
but if the fixed gear is still there (two average nuts equalised by a sliding x left over from the first ascent!)
at the top before you do the big moorheadesque traverse, then that will fill the daks for sure, as there is
not much in the way of gear after that till the anchor.
go for it, it has some good bolts at the start, and your so far up, you wont hit anything if you come of.

uwhp510

13-Jan-2007
11:06:00 AM

No way its 25. Its definitely stout, but thats right in keeping with Mark Moorhead 23s right? The fixed gear is fine, and its a bit weird going down to the belay but it means at least that the fall is not going to be very harsh.

jgoding

15-Jan-2007
11:58:20 PM

Hi,

I tried this not too long ago and left two wires in the route just before the traverse. Tried for a while to get them out but I think it's possible they may become fixed. When I left them - which I think was around October/November they were really good placements.

Good luck. Great route. I found clipping the 2nd bolt quite hard, and the traverse quite desperate.

Joe

There are 7 messages in this topic.