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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side North Wall [ Gorge Guide ] 

Topic Date User
Ozymandias gear list 22-Apr-2019 At 4:29:32 PM IdratherbeclimbingM9
On 21-Apr-2019 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 9-Apr-2019 phillipivan wrote:
>>You don't need doubles above a number 1 or 2 camalot. The stuff thats
>>wide is pretty safe, and also short.
>>You also wont require any micronuts smaller than a 2 RP (and even then).
>>Microcams are not mandatory, but will make the going much quicker.
>>We have way more toys to get up the climb than Ewbank or Baxter, so show
>>a bit a spunk and get up it with whatever ya got. Have fun!
>I don't really rate this macho attitude. The first time I did Ozy we had
>one functional microcam, no offset wires, no cam hooks, no peckers......and
>we took a couple of scary falls on terrain which is A1 with the correct
>tools. We weren't trying to be tough, it was a combination of inexperience
>and student frugality.
>The whole bit about only taking a single set of hand and fist cams is
>dumb. I know the yanks are all about needlessly running the shit out of
>easy trad and aid, but every year a bunch of them get written off when
>a single "bombproof piece" pulls out after they've backcleaned themselves
>into death-fall territory. Carrying three extra cams is not going to be
>the difference between topping out or not, and it might save a life.
>Ewbank and Baxter had mashies, rurps, knifeblades, a frigging hammer,
>and loads of aid climbing experience! Don't be a dick.
What would you take these days? ... apart from the stated ...
>three extra cams

For the record, I reckon that thereís two kinds of Ozy ascents.
The kind where the kitchen sink is taken and the extended sojourn is enjoyed, even if itís hard work; and the second kind, minimalistic to the max as part of the fast and light style, though still hard work, but in a different kind of way! Heh, heh, heh.

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