On 6-Jun-2018 simey wrote:
>Which was the better of these two routes? I've heard a few people really
>rave about Ginsberg.
>And what do people consider to be the best route on Bluff Mountain?
I reckon climbing in the Bungles is much more about adventure than about actually good climbing. I don't reckon any of the pitches I did that weekend, if transposed and made into single pitch routes somewhere else, would get too many stars. Climbing in the Bungles, and on Bluff Mountain, is about the adventure of route finding on dodgy rock, lightly shitting yourself all day and being happy you didn't get benighted. I reckon both are three star Bungles routes because they have mostly good rock and are quite consistent at the grade and go up the proudest part of the face.
Picking between them? Not much really - though the traverse pitch on the 17 stands out. Mostly for slightly more shitting myself than the rest of the route and a reasonably large amount of wondering where the route goes.
I've now had my Bungles fill. Both routes were excellent in the Bungles style. It will now probably be another 10 years before I think it's a good idea to go back.