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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Boomerang Beach 27-Nov-2017 At 1:16:33 PM arniearms

Message

ZAWN WARNING!

* This crag is a sea cliff. Access is strictly under small swell conditions. Even on a medium swell day around 3 foot waves can make it treacherous for access.

* The rock is loose, and the rock is sharp. It's good adventure climbing, but it's just as rough on your rope as it is your skin.

* Wear helmets. The belay's are generally tucked out of the way of the climb, but there is loose conglomerate rock.

* Routes are 15-30m, starting from a belay ledge. Multipitch climbing skills are essential for this style of climbing.

* Communication while climbing will be limited as the longer climbs start off through gently overhanging terrain and finish up the long slab.

* The longer routes top out, and are best cleaned by a 2nd who also tops.

* Lowering off is best avoided, with options such as abseiling and bringing up the 2nd climber advised where possible.

ACCESS

From the Slabs walk up and over the headland, decent can be made rapping 30m in from the north for the northern routes (rope can get snagged and requires a 4m exposed grade 14 scramble to free). Or from the southern end scrambling down to the warm up wall, and a roped scramble to the belay ledge (10m above sea level).

WARM UP WALL

There's a small wall on the southern side of the Zawn where you get a view of the main wall & get used to the funky rock with some shorter climbs. The 3 routes here are graded 14 / 18 / 22