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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Bard or bust 10-Jun-2017 At 2:33:24 PM PeterW

Message

On 10/06/2017 Groveller wrote:
>Thanks Peter and Kieran, where is rope drag the problem?

The traditional belay at the top of the first pitch is several metres below the start of the traverse. Then you move up and slightly right before traversing left. If you aren't careful, you get a nice sharp bend in the rope. (Which can be magnified if you aren't careful with gear on the traverse.) It's not a big deal as long as you keep it in mind, and extend the right-most piece of gear with a longer sling.

Many people today run the first two pitches together, but I wouldn't recommend it for a less experienced leader. It can magnify any rope drag and communication problems.

Kieran's comment was about managing the rope on the belay at the end of the traverse. The ledge is small and often windy, and if the rope is dangling down you risk it getting caught up on something.