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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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2 Weeks in Paris
6:28:24 AM
After some suggestions for an all roundish crag to hang out at for a week or so in April in Euroland. Heading to Font for a few days and then have another week and a half for more climbing. Don't mind driving 10 hours or flying to get somewhere so there isnt much that rules out.

-my climbing partner doesnt climb that hard (maybe 18).
-sport - travelling light.
-somewhere climbing isnt the only attraction - like the dolomites where there is hiking, via ferrata and mountain biking. Still too cold for the dolomites though in April.

I'm looking at Arco. Anybody been?


Karl Bromelow
8:20:35 AM
Spain. Sella.

Beautiful area to climb.

Great digs here:

Costa Blanca, so popular tourist area. On the coast. Plenty to entertain while not climbing.

Can't recommend it highly enough. Cheap flights to Alicante readily available.

Can't go wrong.

I have been to Arco too. It's cool and undoubtedly a stunning location but maybe a little more complicated logistically, and not quite as much shorter stuff to go at at your grade requirement.
6:12:52 PM
I reckon the best thing about the Arco region is the public transport. An excellent bus network services all of the valleys for around 1-2 euros a trip. And the tourist info staff are very helpful. If you tell them where you want to get to they will tell you which bus to get, where to catch it and give you a map and timetable. We had a rental car but it never left the garage in the 2 weeks we were there. Climbed a lot of sport routes from single pitch to 300m and never climbed harder than 18/19. I wouldn’t particularly rave about the quality of the cliffs and climbing but the whole area is very attractive and the locals friendly. As it is a major outdoor activities centre there are a lot of well developed via ferratas, mountain bike tracks and hiking trails within easy reach.
4:21:32 PM
Thanks guys - Both Sella and Arco tick the box - now just have to decide between the two!!

9:19:54 PM
If you want to stay in Northern Europe, Freyr in Belgium is a nice little crag to hang out at for a couple of days - Ace beer, Mussels and Chips, or The Rhineland Pfalz is a Trad German sandstone tower sort of spot. Further afield is Adrspach in the Czech Republic - again Sandstone towers like nowhere else on earth, great fun!

But there again, the South will be warmer....
9:28:45 PM
Stay at font for 2 weeks. Spend saved money on french goon and cheese.
7:03:15 PM
Paklenice in Croatia, much better for your budget, camp by the Mediterranean, public toilets at the crag. Sport routes galore at every grade, as well as 100-350m multipitch options.

Orpierre in France is a beginner friendly crag within walking distance of the campsite, with a town full of aforementioned vino&fromage. Verdon is awesome but more committing.

Adsprach is only for insane climbers who know how to tie monkey-fist knots. Great walking through the features though.

You can do parts of Montserrat in Spain by public transport only - camp in the hills and borrow their guidebooks!

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