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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Gorge	(General)	(General)	[ Gorge Guide ]

Topic Date User

Ozymandias and water 7-Dec-2016 At 12:52:05 PM timfreddo

Message

Belay anchors are all good, a lot of the carrots look crap (8mm and rusty) and there's about 1 or 2 fixed pitons in each of the lower crux pitches.

-Take something to make Big Grassy Flat (its currently a 35 Degree downward sloping rock triangle, about 3 meters across and 1.5 meters from front to back).
A single person hammock and crappy tarp (in which to stuff ropes, gear, haulbag, blown up goon bags etc to make a flat spot for the second person on Big Grassy) would work well.

-Take 2 or 3 cam hooks (small and medium), and lots of offset Brassies/ RPs.

- If you were going to replace old bolts, to do a proper job, you'd need around 100 new stainless expansion bolts, and an angle grinder to chop the oldies.

I'd recommend other classics such as Maharaja, Sultan and Initiation rather than Angels...