On 15/09/2016 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Most fixed gear on the route is usually found on the main roof.
>Climb it not expecting to find any, then if you do come across some it
>will be either a bonus or a disappointment depending on your mindset!
There was a goodly number of fixed nuts in the roof last time I was there. Enough to make it pretty darn easy if you are happy to clip nuts whose placements you can't see (tip: if they were too hard to clean, they probably arent just about to pop).
There are still a half dozen odd fixed pins, maybe ten. Some of them handy, some right next to good gear.
I seem to recall hearing about a carrot or two pulling on the bolt ladder below the roof. If this is indeed the case, it should be easy enough to hook past there if you have an appropriately dimensioned hook (which is otherwise not really necessary). Perhaps someone with more recent experience can clarify.