On 13/11/2015 Wendy wrote:
>On 13/11/2015 FatBoy wrote:
>>Did it on Tuesday by coincidence. It IS protected quite well without
>>the bolt - cam's in the back of the roof and you will actually swing
>>the arete. And when on the big jug two moves later, any number of small
>>cams fit quite well in the jug off to the left.
>I'd say I'd love to see you test that theory but I don't want to have
>to clean up the mess. The ledge is about 2m below you. Once past the first
>move out the roof, you'd be hardpressed to miss it falling onto the gear
>at the back of the route.
The arete is undercut there. And I didn't qualify it, but you'd leave the cams on the extreme left of the R hand face rather than in the campground face because yes, if you placed them around the corner you would definitely go George of the Jungle style into the camp-facing wall.