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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Crag ideas for a euro trip? 23-Oct-2015 At 5:12:24 PM RNM
Message
I thought Paklenica was not that great on my visit. All the stuff that was easy to get to was super polished. Usual story.

Havr (island off Croatian coast) was fun.

I rated Meteora - nice change from all the sport limestone that for me often feels much the same. Conglomerate climbing, all the easy routes are old school with funky old door knocker bolts - the type you would moor a boat to on a wharf. The run outs were large on these routes, but the climbing farily easy, so it added spice to the adventure. The more modern 'hard' routes (above grade 16?) were all well bolted, few run outs. The conglomerate towers were individual peaks, so at the top of most there were old log books. And the area is a World Heritage Site - there are old monestaries on top of many towers, that used to be accessed by rope. In spring the fields were lush and green, with flowers and tortoises. And many of the climbers are Saxons (Eastern Germany) with big beards and friendly smiles. They would buy a loaf of bread and two bottles of beer on the way to the crag. After the first multi pitch they would drink a beer for lunch and eat the bread, then laze in the sun. Mid afternoon they would do the second climb of the day, before downing the second beer and wandering back to camp for a BBQ and wine.

Good times, you should go there.

:)

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