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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles Central Gully Right (General) Preludes Wall [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Topic Date User
Loose blocks on Interlude (18), left of Preludes 11-Oct-2015 At 11:03:24 AM duglash

I did this route yesterday and, while the climbing is quite good I wouldn't do it again or recommend it to others due to the loose blocks on it.

There's a large block about halfway up that I didn't put gear behind as it was hollow sounding - this makes it a bit runout and I'm worried that less experienced leaders - which frequent this area in summer - will put gear behind it and shock load it. At the topout I had placed a cam under the summit block. When I pulled around it I realised that it was a massive detached block, already angled over the cliff edge, and reached back and unclipped my cam. There's a shrub growing behind it and it will probably go by itself one day.

I found the top pretty desperate as I wasn't 100% confident in the gear and you'd hit the ledge on ropestretch - you could do it in two pitches to alleviate this of course.

I know it's people's own responsibility to learn not to put gear behind loose blocks but just thought I'd put out a general heads up as the blocks haven't been mentioned on thecrag or probably the new guidebook.

I did the route with Abby Watkins who was also concerned enough about the blocks that she warned some people off the route who were about to start up it.



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