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Chockstone Photography
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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Dreamtime Wall PDF guide update now available
jgoding
19-May-2015
3:18:27 PM
Howdy,


following on from a flurry of some very good recent first ascents earlier this year I thought it would be time to do an update to the free on-line PDF available here:
http://www.rockmaster.com.au/index.php/sublime-climbs/resources

Version 8D should have everything on offer @ Dreamtime including updated access notes. If you haven't been there it generally faces north so is great for these cooler months, however some sections do seep badly after rain (not the whole cliff) so best to let it dry out for a day or two after heavy rains.

Any constructive feedback most welcome. Please mention the page or route number.

Happy climbing,

Joe, Kevin & Jarrod

goshen
20-May-2015
11:20:33 AM
Last weekend (17/5/), we were unexpectedly kicked out of Dreamtime by the rangers (and we'd walked all the way up to Pot of Gold...), who were planning a burn-off in the area later that day.

I'm not sure if the burn went ahead (I doubt conditions suited a burnoff; there was no wind and still a bit damp); but in any case they said the area might be closed for a while.

Maybe someone can confirm this.

Cheers,
Goshen

kieranl
20-May-2015
1:30:07 PM
I got an email notification about it Sunday morning - I assume that it went ahead - fairly perfect conditions. Dreamtime is in the part of the Serra range targetted for planned burning so if you're going there be aware that these burns can happen with very little notice - as on Sunday.
AndreasAachen
20-May-2015
5:28:59 PM
Hey All,

I am fairly sure that they went ahead with the burn as i could see the smoke coming up later that day.
Would be great to get an official update what the impact on the area is, i.e. for how long it will be closed...



By the way: Thanks for the bolting Joe; Loved the Gulgurn Manja and Pot of Gold!

Cheers
access t CliffCare
20-May-2015
6:13:22 PM
http://cliffcare.org.au/grampians/greater-grampians-roundtable-and-planned-burns-program/
jgoding
16-Aug-2015
4:28:30 PM
Hi,

just letting everyone know that the Henham Track (south end at least) is recently re-opened - so access to Dreamtime is all good again. Enjoy.

PS glad you enjoyed those routes!

FatBoy
2-May-2016
11:05:21 AM
Thanks Jo, spent a day in partial rain, partial glorious sunshine there yesterday. Highly recommended, particularly for people wanting to do a lot of climbing in the 18-25 range. A few questions / comments:

1. What is the route between Perfect Extraction and Double Shot Espresso ? (Ring bolts, looks like nice, clean rock the whole way)

2. We cleaned up an awful lot of rock on Dreaming Of Reconcilliation up high. No spectators made this a relatively safe proprosition

3. Rock around left of Birthday Barrista is so dangerous that the route (Dreaming of Rehabilitation) should not even be attempted.

4. What is the dark orange mega-cave up high on the other side of the valley ? Looks really good, but could be part of the shrinking-crag phenomenon ??

A beautiful spot though, thanks very much to you and others for developing this area.
Dave_S
2-May-2016
1:45:35 PM
I don't think Joe checks Chockstone all that often, but I can probably answer your questions:

1) "Affogato", grade 22. Was just put up by Joe last weekend.

2) Nice work. I haven't climbed that one yet, but I believe the route was shortened by adding an extra bolt with rappel ring next to what was the previously the last or second last bolt, so climbers can lower off without having to go through the seriously loose stuff where the climb originally began moving right. Were you finding loose stuff below this anchor, or up in the original finish?

3) I'll pass that comment on so it can be mentioned in the next edition of the guide.

4) It's never been climbed, but I actually went and checked this out last weekend. It's choss. As impressive as it looks from a distance, the vast majority of it seemed to be far too loose to be climbable. Fantastic vantage point for photos of the main Dreamtime wall though.
MichaelOR
2-May-2016
2:05:54 PM
Yes, Afogado it is. Josef sent me this:
"re Afagato, yes it starts up the shallow corner about 5m right of Double Shot Espresso then traverses about 4m left along a series of welcome jugs and a rest before getting into some very thin face climbing with intricate footwork up a lovely wall. Two of the clips towards the top are tenuous and a little scary to clip, so I'll write it up as suggesting taking two 120cm slings to extend the quickdraw around your feet, plus a shorter draw once you've clipped low. There are just no great clipping positions up there as the climbing is very sustained for about 5-6m."

Andrew, did you get on my route Double Shot Espresso(24)? I'm pretty sure that it's still awaiting a second ascent!

FatBoy
2-May-2016
2:06:35 PM
On 2/05/2016 Dave_S wrote:
>I don't think Joe checks Chockstone all that often, but I can probably
>answer your questions:
>
>1) "Affogato", grade 22. Was just put up by Joe last weekend.
** Looks quite good actually

>2) Nice work. I haven't climbed that one yet, but I believe the route
>was shortened by adding an extra bolt with rappel ring next to what was
>the previously the last or second last bolt, so climbers can lower off
>without having to go through the seriously loose stuff where the climb
>originally began moving right. Were you finding loose stuff below this
>anchor, or up in the original finish?
** Left of the block I reckon you were lowering off. 3 massive chunks, probably 100-200 kilograms worth, and that bit at least is now "safe" (relatively). There is a much smaller death block just under the roof with a chalk cross that would definitely kill anyone it hit. Other than that, I had no (safety) issues going to the top.

>3) I'll pass that comment on so it can be mentioned in the next edition
>of the guide.
* Good. It's frankly irresponsible (imho)

>4) It's never been climbed, but I actually went and checked this out last
>weekend. It's choss. As impressive as it looks from a distance, the vast
>majority of it seemed to be far too loose to be climbable. Fantastic vantage
>point for photos of the main Dreamtime wall though.
* Shame ... even the undercut stuff on the left ?

Thanks again for your collective work in the area.

FatBoy
2-May-2016
2:11:14 PM
On 2/05/2016 MichaelOR wrote:
>Andrew, did you get on my route Double Shot Espresso(24)? I'm pretty sure
>that it's still awaiting a second ascent!

Nope !
Edit: "Nope ! I didn't tick it. Yep ! I got on it"

Tried it last thing of the day unfortunately and was completely rooted from the "onsight" of BB (I sat on the first bolt like others have done so not a true ascent). But can I say ... fantastic route ! The best thing I was on there, 3 stars at Araps (1 at Taipan, 5 at Camel's Hump) with gymnastic climbing down low and a really good pump up high. Really nice, solid rock the whole way too. Nothing loose at all and well bolted. Kudos.

Can confirm the grade too. Not 25, definitely harder moves and more sustained than BB
MichaelOR
2-May-2016
2:18:53 PM
Thanks for the feedback Andrew! Yes, I've done the same lead on Birthday Barista.

Steve Chapman seconded me on Double Shot Espresso and thought that 24 was spot on. But nice to have it confirmed by another leader.
Glad you liked the bolting - a fair bit of thought and work went into that! Pumpy after the traverse I say.
I'll take the 3 stars at Araps and the oneTaipan star anyday!!!!!
Cheers
Dave_S
2-May-2016
2:24:29 PM
On 2/05/2016 FatBoy wrote:
>Shame ... even the undercut stuff on the left ?

Yeah. So the orange cave and the grey wall to the left of it were the worst, and then there seemed to be some shorter sections of reasonable quality rock down and to the right of the cave.

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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