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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Melbourne	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Melbourne Guide ]

Topic Date User

New FH on Scipio Africanus 7-Feb-2015 At 9:20:38 PM Miguel75

Message

On 7/02/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 7/02/2015 Miguel75 wrote:
...SNIP...
>>SA is great fun and the new BR will make the first few moves much,
>much less committing.
>>Thanos looks fun though I've yet to jump on it.
>
>... and this is a good thing?

To answer your question M9, I shall quote from a source of great wisdom; Kung Fun Panda;

Shifu: Master! I have... it's very bad bolting news!
Oogway: Ah, Shifu. There are just bolts. There is no good bolt or bad bolt.
Shifu: Master, your vision. Your vision was right! A new bolt was added to an existing climb.
[pause]
Oogway: That IS bad news.

And so the circle continues;)

EDIT - From what I understand, and someone please correct me if I'm wrong, Glen Tempest bolted this, though not sure if he has the FA, and I reckon if there was to be a bolt down low he would have placed one. The trad gear is sufficient to protect the move and I reckon if people want to climb it a different way they're able to do so by stick clipping the first bolt. They may risk a small pendulum if they climb straight up the arête but that's their choice...

Thanos looks fun, good work on that Dick, though I'm not a fan of the new bolt on SA. I know Redex needs a new hanger on the first bolt as that's still just a bolt plate bolted to a wall...