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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Old stuck nut on Tierry le Fronde, Frenchmans cap 28-Jan-2015 At 12:01:19 PM dtb
Message
PGS, you mean, THAT was the straightforward one,hahaha. Glad the weather didnt allow us to attempt any of the longer ones! Did you pull the roof or back off? I ran out of gear and wasnt about to risk falling on that wire!
Such an amazing climb though, pretty keen to go back when the weather is more settled.

GRANGRUMP, we had 10 days from drop off to pick up. 4 days walking, 32kgs each, 7 days of rain, 2 days of snow and 1 day of climbing. We were lucky we had the time to wait it out, not the best time to go but my mates work schedule dictated the dates. Seeing waterfalls on every aspect of the mountain was something I wont forget!

GFDONC, I'll PM you some pics once I go through all the pics from the trip. Basically, I have no idea where the first pitch starts, we started from the top of the scree chute, were too far left for the first pitch but managed to traverse to the correct belay, missed the spike on the second belay and did 2 and 3 together, sustained like they say (P3 def follows the centre crack, NOT the right hand crack. Obvious traverse on P4 wasnt that obvious and we traversed under the roof (pretty sure we went too high). P5 you have 2 cracks, the left looked less loose but the traverse right under the roof was interesting and the rope drag meant I couldnt keep going (right crack is more straightforward but it looked loose as hell). I belaid on the ledge above the traverse and Rich finished the last 15mtrs to the summit.

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