17 Down Under:
17 DOWN UNDER. "A celebration of moderate grade climbing in Victoria". 184 pages. 285 images. Father & son team, Steve & John Morris, embark on a journey to climb and photograph 50 of the best rock climbs in Victoria, grade 17 & under. Inc bookmark $50.00
Shiltz and I did the route Mother Of Pearl into a combo of Llafnwod P2 then back into P5 of MOP last weekend.
We did it as 4 pitches being P1 (G14) as 1½ pitches (60m rope) of MOP, then the (unprotected G12) section of MOP being a 35m transition pitch from the corner more or less directly up/trending R, to the abseil station half way up P2 of Llafnwod; then another short pitch of 30m (unprotected), straight up (crux G18 for a few moves, direct start P3 Llafnwod, & rig the belay to minimise a FF2), to belay directly above at base of P5 of MoP; and our last pitch (G14, 45m) the corner to belay off a manky tree (and a large cam significantly off to the side), both under the capping block.
There was enough flow in Eurobin Ck that we did not want to cross the water & slime covered secondary stream at top, let alone the main stream to bush-bash back down on the left looking out. The right hand side was feasible for an abseil but the regrowth likely snarling ropes deterred us. Going further right (looking out), would also be a feasible bush-bash, but that is not what we were there for.
There is no abseil station at the 'top', so we abseiled off the manky tree. It is a Tea-tree style bush with roots embedded in slime under rotting rocks... We kept our b/u large cam in for the first person off, but last removed it. Given the size of the tree and the insecure root system, I don't expect it to last long, particularly if we get another drought.
Our 60m ropes came up about 5 maybe 7m short of the guidebook marked Llafnwod abseil station, so we used a good secure multi-trunked fig-type tree about 20m higher, located in the corner system. At this tree we found an abandoned 'abseil sling', backed it up (2nd removed b/u), then continued to the DBB abseil anchor. A further two abseils (used a lower bolted belay), got us off back at the start of MOP.
In my opinion the climb is well named for the last pitch(!), and it is a good adventure day out with great views and ambience.
There is no truth to the rumour that any blood found on holds immediately off the abseil station/direct start P3 Llafnwod is mine!!
I agree* with On 26/12/2008 gordoste wrote:
>i'd suggest putting the top anchor on the actual capping block instead of on the slab. That way the bolts would be protected from the weather and also pulling the rope would be a lot easier than if they're on the slab, which rolls over until you can walk around on it in hiking boots.
~> of suggesting an abseil station on the vertical capping block, though I wouldn't want to cross the slime-stream (no matter the footwear) that we found; as that is an unintentional shortcut to the bottom...
(*Note: As I reported above, double 60m ropes from here, won't get you back to the guidebook marked Llafnwod abseil station.)