>The two most popular routes on Lower Baldy are probably No Complications and Secret Swinger. Both are a bit tough for their advertised grades because the ground below them has eroded. Each has a hard start consisting of a jump to a giant flexing choss-jug and heel-hooking wrestling match, the difficulty of which is disproportionate to the rest of the climb.
This most certainly does not describe the start to Secret Swinger. Yes the start is tough for 17, but it's a delicate thin start in a fingercrack, not a wild swing to loose jugs. Yes portions of SS are chossy, but I was able to find good protection just before and after each of these sections. It's sandstone in the wolgan after all- what do you expect?