So it seems that a bit of a consensus is that we should be really picky about 3 star routes and slightly more liberal with 1 and 2 stars? That should work pretty well for short term visitors who don't want to faff around with anything but the best stuff.
Here's another one. We've been toying with the idea of "compressing" the starring at sport crags. i.e. everything gets either 1 or 2 stars, nothing gets 3. The reasoning is that there tends to be naturally less variation in quality at sport crags, and also, once you're at a sport crag you might as well try everything in your grade range anyway since one tends to get quite a few routes done in a day. Thoughts?