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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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International	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Help needed - climbing and places to stay in Moab 5-Sep-2014 At 8:15:46 PM JMK

Message

Moab has 3 reasons to visit - the climbing, the mountain biking (slick rock) and the beer. A week is too short for either the valley or Moab. Indian creek grades are hard - I thought they were harder than the valley. Incredible hand crack at 10 c felt 21 ish and not a modern soft touch 21 sport. The gear is 7 or 8 gold cams and 1 blue for the lip and a couple of reds. I only mention this as you need heaps of the same size. On the positive size very few people have this many cams so you usually pool your cams with people at the crag. I was lucky to meet a guy in red rocks who invited us to Moab and then lent me his desert rack. Another interesting thing bout the cracks in the area is that some climbs suit different brands better. For instance the golds felt too flared and the blue too tight but wild country hand size was perfect on one of the 11a's.

If the valley is too cold Moab will be awesome. Some nice pinnacles. Start on the owl and move up from there and finish on six shooters.

The valley deserves a trip just for itself