Harau Valley in Sumatra is spectacular and low key - like a sawn-off Blueys in the middle of rice paddies. Just google it and you'll find a few trip reports. It's pretty easy to get to from Bukittinggi (where there's also a bit of a scene, but expect to pay). There's one official place to stay (actually pictured), but there's always the possibility of sleeping on a local's floor.
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